Issue: May 2006

New York City

Donatella Arpaia (co-owner of David Burke & Donatella) shuttered Bellini at 208 East 52nd Street and opened it in March as Dona, Italian for “gift.” Executive chef Michael Psilakis (also chef/owner of Onera) and his menu pay a modern homage to their respective Italian and Greek heritages. Pastry chef Nancy Olsen hails from Peacock Alley. The chic 132 seater has an exposed wine room and a bold palette of black and white with bright yellow lacquer accents. Apps ($12 to $15): sea urchin, burrata, and caviar with fava bean puree and leek oil; roasted octopus/peach salad with charred onion, red wine glaze, and feta. Mains ($18 to $29): pappardelle with Greco-Roman bolognese sauce infused with Greek spices, crispy artichoke, and shaved Pecorino Romano; seared cod with Parmesan crusted asparagus in Parmesan/mushroom broth with truffled egg salad and truffle butter/cremini mushroom sauce. Desserts ($9): chocolate/zucchini cake with walnut/thyme gelato; olive oil panna cotta with candied olives and blood oranges.

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Minneapolis

A quartet of local dining scene veterans, managing partners Tim Niver (formerly of Aquavit) and Aaron Johnson (late of Cosmos), executive chef/managing partner David Vlach (who earned his stripes at The French Laundry and has worked locally at 20.21), and sous chef/partner Tor Westgard (previously of Vincent–A Restaurant), resuscitated the Town Talk Diner space, shuttered for several years, at 2707 1/2 East Lake Street. After expanding next door to add an 80 seat dining room and revamping the interior, but retaining the original 15 seat old-school lunch counter and the original name, they relaunched it in February as a hip comfort food mecca. Apps ($3 to $13): cheese curds dipped in scallion/caper batter and deep-fried with house-made bacon ketchup; salad of avocado, grapefruit, endive, and spinach with citrus vinaigrette. Mains ($6 to $20): barbecued pulled pork sandwich on toasted onion roll with house-made pickles and coleslaw; grilled tri-tip beef steak with sourdough battered onion rings, green beans, forest mushrooms, and herbed butter. Desserts ($6 to $7): chocolate/hazelnut waffle with cherry chunk ice cream; lemon pudding cake with raspberry sauce.

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Washington, DC

May marks the reopening, after a massive Tony Chi overhaul, of the Park Hyatt Washington, D.C. and the launch of its new signature dining spot, the casual Blue Duck Tavern, which replaces Melrose. The 106 seater’s mood is warm and convivial, thanks to bare wood tables, blue burlap accents, and an open kitchen. Executive chef Brian McBride, who helmed Melrose, presides over a floor-to-ceiling wood-burning oven, roasting and braising market-driven American fare. Pastry chef Peter Brett returns to the property after working at other Hyatt kitchens during the renovation. Apps ($9 to $20): green pea soup with poached egg; roasted prawns with plum tomatoes and rosemary. Mains ($21 to $40): five hour braised beef short ribs; hazelnut-crusted roasted rack of lamb. Desserts ($6 to $8): skillet apple pie with sour cream ice cream; chocolate/pecan upside-down cake with Jack Daniels sauce.

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Louisville, KY

In March Allan Rosenberg, recently chef de cuisine at Park Place on Main, opened his own place, Danielle’s (named for his wife), at 2206 Frankfort Avenue. Co-owner is first time restaurateur Don Donahoe. The 100 seater is tucked in a historic building and cuts a handsome figure with rich red and custard yellow walls, mahogany tables, and a stunning stained glass window. Rosenberg serves American fare with a global edge. Apps ($6 to $11): baby back ribs with hoisin barbecue sauce and Asian slaw; coconut/tuna seviche with pico de gallo and sweet ginger cream. Mains ($9 to $23): pan-roasted duck breast with duck hash and sun-dried cherry/Marsala sauce; grilled salmon with caramelized onion grits, portobello mushrooms, and red wine reduction. Desserts ($6): vanilla bean crème brûlée; seasonal flambée with ice cream.

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Long Island, New York

Restaurateurs John Tunney III, David Tunney, and John Rieger opened Besito (Spanish for “little kiss”) at 402 New York Avenue in Huntington in late February. Matthew Lake, most recently of Manhattan’s Rosa Mexicano, and sous chef Scott Wojcik, formerly of The Inn at Little Washington (Washington, VA), create an upscale Mexican repertory in the 120 seat space designed by the owners. In tandem with the extensive menu, Besito offers over 40 choices of Tequila. Apps ($6 to $13): tortilla soup with avocado, pulled chicken, queso Chihuahua, chopped cilantro, and toasted pasilla chiles; fresh corn tamale with seared shrimp and chipotle adobo. Mains ($15 to $25): tender pork seasoned with achiote chiles, cooked in banana leaf, with Yucatán pickled onions and sweet plantains; poblanos stuffed with wild mushrooms, baby spinach, goat cheese, and pine nuts with salsa ranchera. Desserts ($6): traditional pastel de tres leches with seasonal fruits and whipped cream; pine nut flan with roasted pineapple.

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New Orleans

A sure sign that New Orleans is getting back on its culinary feet is the March opening of local restaurateur Vicky Bayley’s 7 On Fulton at 700 Fulton Street. Executive chef David English was recently chef at Cobalt in the Hotel Monaco New Orleans (both damaged by Katrina and closed for restoration). The 96 seater is tucked into a former warehouse, hence the original painted brick walls, arched windows, and soaring ceilings. The menu is contemporary New Orleans fare. Apps ($6 to $9): braised baby artichokes with Louisiana oysters and crisp bacon; roasted red pepper soup with crab and pickled mirliton. Mains ($21 to $27): pan-seared flounder and Southern-style paella with shellfish and chorizo; grilled pork chop with green beans, crawfish, tasso and Creole-style mustard sauce. Desserts ($7): banana/caramel crêpe with pecan praline and rum ice cream; mocha mousse pyramid with espresso cookie, coffee/caramel sauce, and chocolate-covered espresso beans.

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Colorado Springs

In January The Broadmoor debuted the resort’s first stand-alone dining venue, Summit, a smart American brasserie. New York City–based Adam Tihany created a bold contemporary design for the restaurant in marked contrast to the Victorian look of the resort. The curved façade is accented by steel I-beams, wood-covered panels, and large windows. Inside the 166 seater find a slowly revolving 14-foot glass-enclosed cylindrical wine turret. Executive chef Bertrand Bouquin was formerly of Maisonette (Cincinnati), and he handles both the savory and sweet sides of the menu. Apps ($6 to $17): smoked Colorado brook trout with citrus fruit relish and French breakfast radishes; foie gras tartine with apple butter and country bread. Mains ($15 to $29): pan-seared Maine diver scallops with caramelized endive and blood orange; spice-glazed venison chop with braised red cabbage, cranberries, and cauliflower puree. Desserts ($8): pear tart with almond cream and honey ice cream; individual molten chocolate cakes with vanilla ice cream.

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