Issue: June 2006

New York City

Stavros Aktipis, managing partner of Trata Estiatorio and Avra Estiatorio, opened Kellari Taverna at 19 West 44th Street in February. The 200 seat space, with rich chocolate brown banquettes, billowing sheer curtains, terra-cotta walls, wood-beamed cathedral ceilings, and an open kitchen, evokes a classic Greek taverna. Consulting chef Costas Tsingas, who opened Agrotikon, and executive chef Peter Spiropoulos, whose résumé includes stints at Avra Estiatorio and Mylos, turn out contemporary casual fare. Apps ($9 to $17): grilled octopus with rosemary and red wine must; sardines stuffed with olives, walnuts, and raisins. Mains ($20 to $38): grilled shrimp with tomato/lemon confit, olives, and saffron spiced potatoes; slow baked lamb shank with okra, dandelion leaves, and fava bean puree.

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New Orleans

In April Donald Link, chef/owner of Herbsaint, debuted an authentic Cajun and Southern spot, Cochon, at 930 Tchoupitoulas Street. Chef/co-owner Stephen Stryjewski has worked with Link at Herbsaint for many years. Located in an industrial building in the warehouse district, the brick walls of the 100 seater are adorned with black-and-white photographs of Link's Acadian family in Cajun country. Link and Stryjewski collaborated on a menu that showcases an in-house boucherie program (boudin, andouille, and smoked bacon). Apps ($5 to $11): fried boudin with pickled peppers; fried chicken livers with pepper jelly toast. Mains ($12 to $17): smoked beef brisket with horseradish and coleslaw; rabbit and dumplings. Desserts ($6): lemon/buttermilk pie with graham cracker crust, fresh fruit, and lemon sorbet; individual pineapple upside-down cornmeal cake with dulce de leche.

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Raleigh, North Carolina

Kevin and Stacey Jennings, whose Urban Food Group owns Frazier's and Porter's City Tavern, added a third venue to their roster with the March opening of Vivace, a lively modern Italianate spot at 4209 Lassiter Mill Road. The Atlanta-based Johnson Studio (Tru in Chicago and Rathbun's in Atlanta, among others) created a rustic chic interior that seats 105; an outdoor patio accommodates an additional 60. Helming the kitchen is Jeremy Sabo (recently of Porter's City Tavern), whose seasonally focused trattoria menu makes ample use of Vivace's wood-fired oven. Pastry chef Eric Akbari hails from Frazier's. Apps ($7 to $14): tuna carpaccio with cipollini, roasted peppers, and arugula pesto; fried olives stuffed with sausage and ricotta. Mains ($13 to $32): spaghetti with meatballs and tomato sauce; wood-fired New York strip steak with Barolo braised short ribs, Gorgonzola/potato puree, and wild mushrooms.

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Arlington Heights, Illinois

April ushered in the casual Birch River Grill to 75 West Algonquin Road. San Francisco–based Puccini Group designed the 134 seater, striking an easygoing rustic vibe with a cozy stone fireplace, warm woods, and high-backed banquettes. Daniel Sikorski, from Gridley's Grille (Long Grove), is executive chef. Apps ($5 to $13): Granny Smith apple/onion soup with browned Gruyère and apple crisp; spicy fried rock shrimp with roasted vegetables and blue cheese sauce. Mains ($9 to $27): andouille stuffed double pork chops with mashed sweet potatoes, apple chutney, and Creole mustard gravy; Yankee pot roast with braised carrots, celery, onion, Yukon gold potatoes, and demi-glace.

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Santa Paula, California

With over 25 years in the restaurant business, Richard Hyman opened his first restaurant, Avenue X, in the historic Glen Tavern Inn. Hyman, most recently of Bellavino Wine Bar, and his team bring fine cuisine to Ventura County via a menu fused with Asian, European, and Latin influences in March. Jennifer Jenks, formerly of The Palm Steak house, is sous chef; Tiffany Buchanon, from Gracie's and Coconut Grove, is pastry chef. Apps ($8 to $18): asparagus napoleon with organic goat cheese, caramelized onion, smoked tomato, and garlic mousseline; shrimp/pesto risotto with basil chiffonade and shaved Grana Padano. Mains ($21 to $36): medallions of Maine lobster; deconstructed beef Wellington. Desserts ($8 to $10): coconut/ginger napoleon with roasted pineapple carpaccio and tropical fruit brunoise; bittersweet chocolate cake with reduced Port sauce.

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