Simon Oren's Tour de France Restaurant Group (Marseille, Pigalle, and Nice Matin, among others) launched the 60 seat Café D'Alsace at 1695 Second Avenue in March. Classic bistro trappings—saffron walls, deep red banquettes, and a sinuous zinc topped bar stocked with upwards of 100 types of beers—set the stage for lusty Alsatian fare by chef/partner Philippe Roussel (formerly chef/owner at Gavroche). Apps ($7 to $16): potée Alsatian, a hearty cabbage and white bean soup with carrots and bacon; warm leeks vinaigrette with Sherry vinegar, truffle oil, and tomatoes. Mains ($17 to $27): baekenofe, a traditional Alsatian casserole of lamb, oxtails, bacon, and potatoes braised in Pinot Gris with onion and thyme; fresh salmon smoked to order with fresh green lentils and lemon vinaigrette. Desserts ($8 to $9): a thin cartwheel of caramelized apple tart served hot with vanilla ice cream; warm flourless chocolate cake with fresh raspberries, raspberry coulis, and pistachio ice cream.
In April The Smith & Wollensky Restaurant Group morphed their Manhattan Ocean Club (57 West 58th Street) into landlubber Quality Meats, a modern interpretation of the classic steakhouse. Executive chef Craig Koketsu and executive pastry chef Cory Colton are both Lespinasse alums and recently ran the kitchens of Manhattan Ocean Club. Design firm AvroKO (Public, Stanton Social, Sapa) drew on materials traditional to old-school New York City butcher shops—warm wood, stainless steel, and white marble—to create a stylish industrial look for the 150 seater. Koketsu sources all meats from two of the city's legendary family butchers, Milton Abeles and Stassburger Meats, and all steaks are served with the restaurant's signature steak sauce prepared tableside of molasses, raisin and tomato purees, garlic confit, fresh snipped rosemary, thyme, and black pepper. Apps ($9 to $19): hand-cut steak tartare with classic accoutrements; roasted bone marrow with red wine glazed root vegetables. Mains ($21 to $70): flatiron steak with blackberries; sautéed Dover sole. Desserts ($10): individual Key lime meringue pie; individual pistachio swirl cheesecake.
Chef Brenda Langton and her husband and partner Timothy Kane (who together own Cafe Brenda) launched Spoonriver, an eclectic take on the farm-to-table concept, at 750 South Second Avenue in June. Measuring 11 feet wide and 100 feet long, the 80 seater evokes a Pullman railroad car but remains claustrophobics-friendly thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows throughout. Joining Langton in the kitchen are Liz Benser and Tasha Pruitt, both veterans of Cafe Brenda, and Lisa Carlson, formerly of Barbette. Pastry chef Gwendolyn Efta was recently at Franklin Street Bakery. Apps ($4 to $9): savory wild mushroom/pistachio terrine with fruit chutney, mustard sauce, croutons, and cornichons; smoked chicken/kasseri cheese quesadillas with mango/cranberry coulis. Mains ($11 to $21): roasted Minnesota lamb with vegetable ragoût and fresh tagliatelle; broiled Wisconsin rainbow trout with brown butter/passion fruit/peekytoe crab sauce, quinoa rice pilaf, and vegetables. Desserts ($5 to $7): goat cheesecake with fresh fruit; rhubarb tart with coconut tapioca and guava sauce.
Anne Le, a creative force behind Palo Alto's Tamarine Restaurant, teamed up with her aunt and Tamarine executive chef Tammy Huynh to launch Bong Su Restaurant & Lounge, a modern Vietnamese spot, at 311 Third Street in May. The 170 seater pairs traditional art with such trend sensitive appointments as movable screens, communal tables, and a glass-encased wine room. Huynh's menu, which encourages sharing, is an inventive and regional approach to traditional Vietnamese food. Pastry chef Clara Yun recently ran pastry programs for Jocelyn Bulow's restaurants (La Suite, Chez Papa, Chez Mamam, Plouf, and Baraka). Apps ($7 to $16): honey/five-spice roasted quail stuffed with sticky rice, shiitake mushrooms, and green onions; wok-tossed crab with noodles, garlic, peppercorns, and ginger. Mains ($17 to $26): grilled Australian lamb chops with baby bok choy and shoestring yam fries; Alaskan cod caramelized in garlic, black pepper, molasses, and onion. Desserts (averaging $9): lemongrass/ginger crème brûlée with brown sugar shortbread; coconut tapioca with roasted pineapple, mango sorbet, and basil syrup.
Jon Beeaker, formerly executive chef at Fivespice, and partners Kevin Dorney and Marcus Ginther, both familiar faces on the local dining scene, debuted a Northwest barbecue joint, Acme Food & Drink, at 1305 S.E. Eighth Avenue in May. The space, formerly a coffee shop, got a "working class" make-under, complete with fake wood paneled walls and red leather booths. In addition to the 70 seat dining room and bar, a patio accommodates another 50. Apps ($4 to $12): wild boar ribs with lime dipping sauce; fried oysters with chipotle mayonnaise and coleslaw. Mains ($9 to $20): house-smoked pastrami Reuben sandwiches; braised pork belly with Carolina-style barbecue sauce and maple whipped sweet potatoes.
The Hotel del Coronado replaced Prince of Wales in May with 1500 Ocean, a romantic spot with killer ocean views serving a seafood-rich menu of Southern California coastal cuisine. This marks the return of chef de cuisine Jason Shaeffer to the area. Prior to his recent stint as opening sous chef at New York City's Per Se, he was executive chef at San Diego's Laurel. Setting off the restaurant's views is a palette of glowing sunset colors, dark wood accents, and warm lighting, which together give the 170 seat space the sun-kissed elegance of a chic beachfront cabana. Apps ($12 to $20): seared scallops with sunchokes, pickled red pearl onions, and tarragon; honey/thyme–cured yellowtail with avocado mousse, jicama, radishes, and sweet jalapeño jelly. Mains ($27 to $40): steamed Pacific halibut with spring onions, wilted spinach, new crop potatoes, and Banyuls beurre blanc; Kurobuta pork short ribs and loin with sweet corn, chanterelle mushrooms, pearl onions, thyme, and aged Sherry vinegar. Desserts ($10): rhubarb/strawberry crisp with granola streusel and frozen yogurt; warm chocolate/chipotle cake with banana/caramel ice cream.
