In July, executive chef Neal Fraser, his wife and business partner, Amy Knoll Fraser, and restaurateur Richard Drapkin—who together own Grace—launched an American comfort food spot, BLD (which stands for breakfast, lunch, and dinner) and a retail shop (by the same name), selling cheeses, charcuterie, grab-and-go pastries, and sandwiches at 7450 Beverly Boulevard. The 158 seater epitomizes modern comfort with butterscotch hued walls, deep red leather seating, and polished concrete floors. Fraser and chef de cuisine Mike Garber (formerly Grace sous chef) have created a flexible mix-and-match menu of robust salads, hearty sandwiches, and grilled entrées with choices of sides and sauces. Apps ($8 to $19): house-cured salmon salad with horseradish vinaigrette, arugula, grilled red onion, and bagel chips; hemp seed–crusted tofu with asparagus, shishito peppers, greens, and miso/rice wine vinaigrette. Mains ($12 to $26): braised pork shank sandwich with sweet-and-sour onions, greens, whole grain mustard, and French fries; grilled chicken with choice of two sides and one sauce (basil pesto, lemon butter, smoked tomato ketchup, red wine sauce, or garlic nage). Desserts ($3 to $9): peach nectarine cobbler; brownie ice cream sundae.
Husband and wife team Anna Elena Pedron Braña (formerly Norman Van Aken's personal assistant/marketing manager) and Jeffrey Braña (recently top toque at Norman's, Coral Gables) launched the 50 seat Restaurant Brana at 276 Alhambra Circle in July. The cuisine, contemporary American with touches of old Florida, is matched with a similarly themed setting. Outdoors, lemon trees and old-fashioned backyard chairs add a homey touch; indoors the mood is decidedly modern, thanks to poured concrete floors and abstract food photos. Apps ($10 to $16): flounder cooked in lemon leaves with artichokes and harissa; corn risotto with escargots, rabbit sausage, and Bourbon/maple syrup sauce. Mains ($29 to $38): veal brisket with crayfish sauce, pole beans, and polenta; Copper River salmon with soy sauce, glazed turnips, and grilled lettuce. Desserts ($7 to $10): chocolate mousse with white chocolate powder and Michigan cherry ice cream; crème caramel with roasted peaches and pecans.
One of Long Island's most prodigious and prolific chefs, Tom Schaudel, joined forces with local builder Jeff Hallock and first time restaurateur Dr. Frank Arena to save an Italianate Victorian gem from demolition, the long-shuttered and completely dilapidated Jedediah Hawkins Inn (400 South Jamesport Avenue). After a meticulous head-to-toe renovation, including the creation of an elegantly intimate 40 seat dining room, replete with leather-clad ceiling and refurbished fireplace of Italian white marble and ebony, as well as a cozy 20 seat tavern, the inn reopened in June. Schaudel, also chef/co-owner of PassionFish (Westhampton Beach) and Thom Thom (Wantagh), among others, and chef de cuisine Michael Ross (also chef/owner of Fiddleheads American Fish House & Grill in Oyster Bay) have assembled an upscale menu with a local accent. Apps ($10 to $22): seared foie gras with local blackberry gastrique and a corn pancake; seared lamb carpaccio with roasted red pepper relish, baby wild arugula, Dijon mustard, and walnut oil. Mains ($22 to $36): grilled Montauk tuna with grilled radicchio, endive, and fennel; grilled New York strip steak with roasted garlic creamed spinach, truffled Parmesan potatoes, and onion rings. Desserts ($8 to $12): almond pound cake with figs, Armagnac, and sweetened mascarpone; blueberry brioche bread pudding with whipped cream and blueberry syrup.
In September, two champions of all things delicious and healthy, chef Michel Nischan (formerly of Heartbeat in New York City and recently a creative force of Pure, the first well-being restaurant conceived and developed by a Western chef in India) and actor/philanthropist Paul Newman put their heads together to debut The Dressing Room, A Homegrown Restaurant on the grounds of the Westport Country Playhouse. Nischan is owner, Newman is "director of opinions," Franz Fruhmann (who hails from Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocantico Hills, NY) is executive chef, and Bill Yosses (recently executive chef at Josephs by Citarella in New York City) is pastry chef. The space seats 113 indoors and 24 on an outdoor patio. The exterior mimics the look of a New England barn with shingle siding and a metal roof; the interior, with its stone fireplace, reclaimed white oak flooring, and heavy timber columns and beams, evokes an updated tavern. Apps ($8 to $13): poached and seared quail with Black Mission fig puree and spicy Brussels sprouts; fried calamari with soft cheese grits and heirloom tomato/caramelized onion compote. Mains ($15 to $28): heirloom-breed pork cheek pot roast with caramelized leeks and pan-roasted carrots; seared wild striped bass with early fall succotash and preserved Meyer lemon. Desserts ($8): frozen hot chocolate soup with coconut gnocchi; burnt toffee pudding with raw sugar sauce.
Dio Deka, a 145 seater brushstroking grand Greek cuisine with tints from other Mediterranean palettes, took over the old Kuleto's space in the Hotel Los Gatos in September. Executive chef Salvatore Calisi, who hails from Valbella Ristorante in New York City, is a partner. The dining room is warmed by comforting earth tones and a cheery hearth-style fireplace; an outdoor courtyard accommodates an additional 70. Apps ($7 to $18): crispy zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta, anthortiro cheese, smoked ham, and black truffle emulsion; steamed mussels with spicy tomato/ouzo broth, dill, sausage, and garlic/olive oil–rubbed crostini. Mains ($17 to $45): oven-roasted grilled fillet of Alaskan halibut with Manila clam/saffron broth, roasted acorn squash, preserved lemon jam, and rock shrimp dumplings; slow-roasted lamb shoulder with papparadelle, garlic confit, Santorini wine, kalamata olives, and shaved kefalotiri cheese. Desserts ($8 to $12): imported Greek yogurt with fresh fruit, macadamia nuts, thyme-scented Greek honey, and pomegranate molasses; baklava of phyllo, slow-roasted bananas, toasted nuts, and clove-spiced citrus syrup with cinnamon gelato.
