October marked the return to the stoves of Michael Lomonaco, best known for his work as executive chef at Windows on the World. Lomonaco is executive chef/managing partner of Porter House New York, a contemporary American steakhouse (see "High Steaks" with an ambitious American fish and seafood program, in the Time Warner Center (10 Columbus Circle). Kenneth Himmel, president and CEO of Related Urban Development and the Time Warner Restaurant Fund, and partners are owners. New York City–based Jeffrey Beers redesigned the space, formerly Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Barbary Coastish V Steakhouse, creating a handsome 140 seater with wooden floors, exposed wooden beams, and leather-clad armchairs and banquettes. Joining Lomonaco in the kitchen are chef de cuisine Michael Ammirati and pastry chef Wayne Harley Brachman (both worked with Lomonaco while he was at Gaustavino's). Apps ($9 to $18): oyster pan roast with onion brioche and leaf spinach; hand-chopped beef tartare with traditional garnishes. Mains ($24 to $78): Dry-aged USDA prime porterhouse for two; Hudson Valley rainbow trout with Florida rock shrimp butter. Desserts ($10): coconut layer cake with fluffy frosting; apple pie with brown sugar/vanilla ice cream.
pIn September chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and business partner Phil Suarez launched the Asian themed Chambers Kitchen by Jean-Georges in the newly minted Chambers hotel (a swanky sibling to the New York City original). The bi-level space, decorated with cutting-edge modern art throughout, seats 60 in an airy ground floor level lounge. The main dining room is a chic 160 seat industrial cave on the lower level. Executive chef Joshua Nudd hails from The Island Hotel (Newport Beach, CA), while pastry chef Christopher Szczeniowski, a French native, recently worked at Jean Georges in New York City. Apps ($6 to $11): tuna with sriracha/citrus emulsion; peekytoe crab with asparagus, mustard, and melon juice. Mains ($18 to $22): salt-and-pepper walleye with jalapeños and basil; duck à l'orange with Asian pears and crystallized ginger. Desserts ($6 to $7): warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and cocoa brittle tuile; caramelized banana cake with salted caramel ice cream.
In September Peter Smith, formerly executive chef at the venerable Vidalia, opened a modern American spot of his own in Penn Quarter (777 I Street, N.W.), PS 7's. The 164 seat space is dominated by a ribbon-like blue wall flanking the dining room that twists at one end, morphing into an undulating ceiling. The menu, playing on the restaurant's name, is broken into seven categories, traveling from small to large in both price and portion size and culminating in dessert, dubbed Little Sins and Bigger Sins, the devilish work of Naomi Gallego (formerly of Vidalia and Equinox). Mains (averaging $23): trio of veal (sautéed loin with salsify fondue, crispy sweetbreads with lobster cream, and braised breast with wild mushroom ragoût); poached Pacific butterfish roulade with wilted blond pea shoots, maroon carrot puree, and blood orange emulsion. Desserts ($7 to $12): sourdough cake with plum/tonka bean compote, yogurt sorbet, and tangerine confit; Key lime tart with sour cream mousse, blackberry jelly, fresh mangos, and blackberry seltzer.
Lee Skawinski, chef/co-owner of Cinque Terre, and co-owners Dan Kary and Michelle Mazur-Kary opened a second Italianate venue, Vignola, at 10 Dana Street last summer. The 75 seat osteria and wine bar channels a laid-back European aura via exposed brick walls and a glass-walled wine closet. The menu balances imported foods from Italy and Spain (Vignola is housed in the same building as Rogers International, a partner in Fermín USA, the importers of the first Ibérico products) with locally grown Maine produce. Apps ($6 to $12): Prosecco/sweet onion soup with Asiago cheese crostini; pizza of fresh mozzarella, truffled pecorino, tomatoes, and prosciutto. Mains ($16 to $20): grilled whole lobster with oregano/paprika butter and shaved fennel salad; grilled prime skirt steak with pickled hot peppers, balsamic vinegar, and arugula. Desserts ($4 to $8): Italian chocolate custard with espresso cream; warm pear/apple/fig compote with currants, vanilla syrup, and a mascarpone cookie cup.
Alex Parlamis, a New Jersey native and partner of the Brooklyn-based Parlamis Group, opened Axia, a 120 seat Greek spot, at 18 Piermont Road in September. New York City–based Tony Chi designed the space, converting a suburban house into a chic eatery replete with slate flooring, cream colored leather banquettes, and a glass-walled wine storage unit that doubles as a room divider. The menu of updated Greek fare is the collaboration between consulting chef Diane Kochilas, an authority on Greek cuisine, and executive chef Alex Gorant, who earned his stripes at New York City's Le Bernardin, Artisanal, and Town. Apps ($6 to $12): tomatoes stuffed with clams, crab, and rice; oven-baked Haloumi cheese with orange, mint, and honey. Mains ($17 to $28): roasted Colorado leg of lamb stuffed with figs, feta, and caramelized onions; olive crusted pan-roasted salmon with spinach/rice pilaf.
