Issue: April 2007

New York City

The Inn LW12, a British-Canadian inspired gastropub with a hint of a French accent, joined the booming meatpacking district dining scene in February at 7 Ninth Avenue (the name references its charming Little West 12th cross street). Partners are Jeffrey Jah (partner at Lotus and Double Seven), Lyman Carter (founding partner at Plug, an event marketing company), and David Lopez, whose résumé includes tenures at Submercer in New York City and The Standard Hotel in Los Angeles. Executive chef Andy Bennett, who decamped from the venerable Lords of the Manor (Gloucestershire, England), collaborated on the menu with his mentor Daniel Boulud, culinary consultant for the venue. Tucked in an historic town house, the handsome street level pub with exposed brick and natural woods seats 32. Apps ($9 to $16): duck leg soup with barley, cabbage, and winter root vegetables; pickled herring in white wine with apple/celery/crème fraîche salad. Mains ($19 to $38): fresh smoked Idaho trout with leeks and fingerling potatoes; Guinness braised flat iron steak with parsnip mash. Desserts ($8 to $15): maple/cranberry nougat; caramelized baked apple with pistachio crumble.

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Pennsylvania

Having mastered Andalucian tapas at Amada, chef/owner Jose Garces turned his attention to Basque pinxtos, the northwest region's small plates equivalent, at his second venture, the intimate 60 seat Tinto (114 South 20th Street), which opened in January. Taking a rustic wine cellar as the interior's inspiration, New York City–based designer Jun Aizaki (who also created Amada's look) lined all the walls with wood grids to accommodate thousands of wine bottles and used reclaimed lumber for high-top tables and the bar, where charcuterie and cheese plates are composed. Joining Garces in the kitchen is chef William Zuchman, an alum of Lacroix and Morimoto. Vegetables ($7 to $10): roasted royal trumpet mushrooms and potatoes with shallots and parsley; haricots verts with toasted almonds, sliced dates, and orange segments in hot paprika/Sherry vinaigrette. Meats, shellfish & seafood ($8 to $28): brochette of lamb loin, eggplant, and bacon with onion cream and Sherry/lamb jus; baby squid in its own ink sauce and bomba rice with crab. Desserts ($7 to $8): truffled chestnut soup with pear salad; chocolate "salami" with horchata anglaise.

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Miami

With years of international experience in the luxury brand industry under his belt, French born Patrick Charpentier took on the new challenge of restaurateur with the January debut of The Food Gang at 9472 Harding Avenue. The 4,000-square-foot space encompasses a soigné 80 seat dining room (think Provence greets the Hamptons) and a gourmet shop packed with luxury goods from top-shelf specialty retailers (Petrossian, Murray's Cheese Shop, and Fauchon). Fresh off a stint as executive chef at Ivy Aventura Restaurant & Style Bar (Aventura), Howard Kleinberg leads the kitchen gang. Apps ($8 to $18): Serrano ham–wrapped asparagus with poached egg, truffle vinaigrette, and lemon dust; ahi tuna tartare with American caviar, potato tuile, and micro greens. Mains ($17 to $39): pan-roasted black grouper with chorizo hash, crisp shaved artichokes, and mussel nage; dry-aged beef rib eye with white anchovy butter and smoked paprika frites.

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Charlottesville, Virginia

January marked the launch of Ten, a contemporary Japanese venue reaching beyond the usual sushi standards, at 120B East Main Street. Owner Coran Capshaw is a local real estate mogul and rock music industry veteran who also owns Charlottesville-based Central Restaurant Group (Blue Light Grill & Raw Bar and Mono Loco, among others). Executive chef Bryan Emperor is back from Beijing, where he opened a similar concept. Emperor apprenticed in Japan early in his career and later polished his skills at New York City's Nobu and Megu. The 70 seat interior takes on opposing yin/yang personae. In the spacious dining room, 20-foot-high ceilings are outfitted with reflective panels to mirror a candlelight shimmer below, evoking a starry night. The sushi bar area is swathed in crisp whites, iridescent fabrics, and olive wood accents to capture a daylight sky. Apps ($5 to $15): spicy honey/tuna sushi roll; tea-infused soba noodles with citrus and soba dashi. Mains ($15 to $30): lobster with miso butter and sautéed greens; pork belly simmered in soy sauce and five spices with daikon and sharp mustard.

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