The Plumed Horse, a standard-bearer of fine dining in Silicon Valley, rides into the 21st century with a new look, chef, and menu. New owners Peter Armellino as executive chef (formerly chef de cuisine at San Francisco's Aqua), general manager Joshua Weeks (longtime Plumed Horse general manager), and Aki Fuji mura, Gary Price, Tony Zingale, and Bob Beachler (all Silicon Valley executives) bought the restaurant last fall and enlisted Walid Mando of San Francisco—based Forma for the overhaul. The 150 seat space at 14555 Big Basin Way, which opened in August, is now contemporary and dressy thanks to a glass-encased wine cellar and pale sycamore wood panels suspended below the luminous gold Venetian-plastered ceiling. The kitchen team includes sous chef Chris Watkins, a former colleague of Armellino from his Jardinière and Campton Place days, and pastry chef Jonathan Kristie, who decamped from 231 Ellsworth in San Mateo. Their menu is a refined and luxurious take on California/French fare. Mains ($29 to $42): New Zealand John Dory with cucumber pickle, tomato/turmeric glaze, and lobster vinaigrette; Peking-style California squab with gingered napa cabbage, dried plums, and barley/corn pancakes. Desserts ($9): house-dried plums soaked in Armagnac with lemon verbena parfait and browned butter crêpes; baked California (vanilla ice cream and strawberry sorbet encased in meringue).
At Hugh Acheson's latest venture, The National (232 West Hancock Avenue), which opened in August, he pays homage to the bold flavors of North Africa, Southern Spain, France, and Italy. Pivoting over from Five and Ten (Acheson's other restaurant) as partners are Peter Dale, who is chef de cuisine, and Chris Luken, who minds the front of the house. The 66 seater's neutral interior is enlivened by retro-images of vintage airplanes and antique maps of Athens and the Mediterranean. Apps ($6 to $9): chopped salad with minted yogurt, pine nuts, and sumac; seared scallops with browned butter, preserved lemon, and whipped white beans. Mains ($16 to $23): seafood fideo of shrimp, squid, and clams with broken noodles, tomato, fennel, peppers, saffron, and lemon aïoli; Moorish-style grilled pork tenderloin with tomato couscous, cucumber salad, and date mostarda. Desserts ($3 to $6): warm chocolate brownie with Marcona almonds, brandy soaked cherries, and vanilla ice cream; pistachio meringue cake with stewed peaches and crème fraîche.
Jim Edmonds, center fielder for the St. Louis Cardinals, is trying his hand as a restaurateur with the September debut of Fifteen (the name matches his uniform number), a reconceived steakhouse at 1900 Locust St. Co-owner and general manager is Mark Winfield, a longtime friend who co-owned and managed the Lafayette Pub. Tucked into a building from the 1890s with seating for 70 indoors and 50 outdoors, the venue's design modernizes its fine old vintage frame by mixing restored brick with hand-painted white resin floors and intimate round leather banquettes. Executive chef Tim McLaughlin, who hails from Red Moon and Faust's, updates steakhouse standards. Apps ($6 to $8): toasted chorizo dumplings with tomato jam; Bibb lettuce salad with warm shallot vinaigrette, pickled walnuts, and blue cheese. Mains ($12 to $32): roasted chicken with cabbage, bacon broth, and green apple; dry-aged prime porterhouse with sweet-and-sour ketchup. Desserts ($3 to $5): spiced panna cotta with cranberry/orange soda; roasted banana tiramisù.
The newest creation of David Myers, CEO of FoodArt Group, is Comme Ça, a classy simulacrum of a modern Parisian brasserie, which opened in September just down the street from his upscale Sona and Boule patisserie at 8479 Melrose Avenue. Michelle Myers, FoodArt Group creative director, collaborated on the 142 seat space with locally based KAA Design Group, balancing a white, black, and red color scheme with handsome tufted banquettes, antique mirrors, black chalkboards, and oyster and cheese bars. Sona sous chef Michael David was promoted to Comme Ça executive chef. All desserts and pastries hail from Boule. Apps ($8 to $15): crispy bone marrow with toast, oxtail jam, and fleur de sel; salad of frisée, chicken livers, bacon, and poached egg. Mains ($18 to $28): wine-braised short ribs with mushroom fricassée and pureed potatoes; pan-roasted duck breast with leeks, creamed spinach, and spaetzle. Desserts ($8): brioche pudding with crème anglaise; warm caramelized fruit tart with vanilla ice cream.
