Singing the culinary song of Central Italy is Allegro, an upscale eatery that opened in October at 560 Dutch Valley Road. Owner Alberto Fedeli, an Italian native with extensive hospitality experience throughout Europe, recruited talented Jose Rego, formerly at Sotto Sotto and Fritti in Atlanta, as executive chef. The 120 seat dining room's minimalist aesthetic is punctuated by lively rich red and gold accents, dark wood framed mirrors, a travertine bar, and a patio with a glass mosaic of the charming glutton Arlecchino (Harlequin). Apps ($8 to $16): burrata with sautéed tomatoes, basil, red pepper flakes, and extra-virgin olive oil; braised beef ravioli in braising juices, truffle oil, and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Mains ($18 to $32): halibut with roasted peppers, capers, and wild oregano in seafood broth; milk-braised pork shank with chickpea salad. Desserts ($8): limoncello tiramisù; chocolate panna cotta.
Fish & Farm, which opened in October in the Mark Twain Hotel (replacing Sultan), is a locavore's delight, since much of the new American menu is composed of foods sourced from within a 100 mile radius of the restaurant. Owners of this sustainably correct venture are siblings John and Elena Duggan, third generation owners of Original Joe's, and general manager/beverage director Frank Klein (previously owner of First Crush Wine Bar, among others). Executive chef Michael Morrison migrated from Ame. Spanning the robin's-egg blue walls of the 58 seat endeavor are classic, deeply tufted brown leather banquettes. Displays of antique fishing gear, pitchforks, and bucolic photographs round out the vintage chic look. Apps ($7 to $15): venison spare ribs with celery root rémoulade, baby radishes, and marinated cucumbers; lentil soup with caramelized onions and Red Hawk cheese crostini. Mains ($16 to $22): grilled California sea bass with sweetbread/mushroom ravioli, thyme, and porcini mushroom jus; pan-seared duck breast with house-made duck sausage, creamy polenta, olives, and farmers' market vegetables. Desserts ($7): pear/huckleberry crisp with vanilla ice cream and candied walnuts; Valencia orange sherbet float with candied orange zest, chantilly cream, and seltzer.
Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier of Arrows and MC Perkins Cove (Ogunquit, ME) brought their signature Americana fare to the Boston area with the November unveiling of the 126 seat Summer Winter (open year-round), in the Boston Marriott Burlington. Rough stone walls, warm woods, burnished leathers, and nubby wools suggest an updated New England farmhouse. An on-site four season greenhouse makes its mark on the seasonal, ever shifting menu. Jim Gallagher, late of Saybrook Point Inn (Old Saybrook, CT), is chef de cuisine. Apps ($8 to $15): salt cod brandade with johnnycakes and butter poached oysters; cockles with ham, garlic, rice wine, scallions, and ginger. Mains ($24 to $34): Mama Clark's paprika roasted duck for two; whole fried trout with scallions and Chinese black beans. Desserts ($8 to $12): warm seasonal turnover with vanilla ice cream; milk shake of the day with coconut macaroons.
In September Amy Tornquist, owner of the Durham-based Sage & Swift Gourmet Catering Company and original chef at Nasher Museum Café, launched her first restaurant at 1116 Broad Street. Named for a beloved childhood haunt for candy and snacks, Watts Grocery serves classic North Carolina cuisine as defined by what's grown locally and seasonally. With high ceilings, large orange oval lampshades overhead, a chocolate hued banquette, and paintings by husband and Sage chef/partner Jeremy Kerman, the 110 seat interior has a laid-back, easy-to-love soul. Apps ($7 to $9): roasted butternut squash salad with field greens, Stilton, spiced pecans, and balsamic vinaigrette; smoked local ham with fig compote and cheddar toasts. Mains ($12 to $19): chile-braised short ribs with goat cheese dumplings and lemony sautéed escarole; rockfish "muddle" (fish stew with onions, potatoes, and carrots in bacon studded broth) with braised greens and hush puppies. Desserts ($5 to $6): root beer float with cinnamon ice cream and brown sugar/pecan bars; chocolate pudding layer cake with fresh whipped cream.
