Kerry Heffernan, who made a name for himself as a modern American master at Eleven Madison Park, is back at the stoves as executive chef at South Gate, which opened in January in the Jumeirah Essex House hotel. The 109 seat space, formerly home to Cafe Botanica, got an A-lister redesign at the hands of Tony Chi, who created an updated glittering wine haven by matching lustrous red travertine flooring and leather-topped tables and seating. Apps ($11 to $19): seared fatty albacore with eucalyptus, lemon zest, and garlic; warm mosaic of parsnip, beet, and celeriac with fleur vert goat cheese and Styrian pumpkin seed oil. Mains ($21 to $32): wild striped bass with celery fondue, white anchovy, and lovage; braised and crisped pork belly with cider, star anise, Chinese yellow leeks, and kohlrabi/bacon puree. Desserts ($11): frozen blood orange parfait with crisp meringue, mascarpone ice cream, and shortbread; chocolate mille-feuille with roasted bananas, peanut butter powder, and banana/chocolate chip ice cream.
A new addition to the Upper West Side is the elegant neighborhood-style eatery Dovetail, at 103 West 77th Street. Chef/owner is John Fraser, formerly of Compass and Snack Taverna. The restaurant's name means to join together harmoniously, which is what Fraser does with his classic French fare and seasonal local ingredients. The interior, designed by Richard Bloch, is a union of existing elements, i.e. an exposed brick wall and stone archway, with techi-friendly modernities such as a stainless-steel staircase leading to the 75 seat main dining room. An underground cellar shelves an impressive 25 Sherries and sequesters a 20 seat private dining room. Fraser brought over Vera Tong, former pastry chef at Compass, to sweet talk the menu. Apps ($12 to $24): Brussels sprout leaves with cauliflower, serrano ham, and sunflower seeds; guinea hen ballottine with cranberry panzanella and lentilles de Puy. Mains ($26 to $36): braised tilefish with celery hearts, roasted garlic polenta, salty peanuts, and lime salad; poussin with foie gras stuffing, melted leeks, and Mission figs. Desserts ($8 to $11): chocolate caramel fondant with Earl Grey streusel, hazelnuts, and Ceylon cinnamon ice cream; quince/pineapple crumble with buttermilk sherbet.
Porter & Frye, an inviting 110 seat haven tucked into the Hotel Ivy, a new property by The Luxury Collection Starwood Hotels & Resorts in bustling downtown, opened in March. Steven Brown, executive chef of the restaurant and hotel, was previously top toque at Levain and Harry's Food & Cocktails. Chef de cuisine Josh Habiger is an Alinea (Chicago) alum, while pastry chef Juliette Lelchuk is formerly of Auriga. Exposed concrete, brick, and iron alongside dark walnut paneling and flattering amber lighting set an appropriately retro-contemporary backdrop for Brown's modern Midwestern cuisine. Apps ($9 to $14): chicken-fried venison with black trumpet mushrooms, homemade tater tots, and milk gravy; Berkshire pork terrine with radishes, celery, smoked raisins, and moutarde au violette. Mains ($14 to $50): Parmesan-crusted walleye with lobster risotto, green apple, anise seed, and shiso; boneless lamb "porterhouse" stuffed with Swiss chard and lamb's tongue, with black olives, Red Bliss potatoes with sour cream fondant, and tomato marmalade. Desserts ($8 to $10): warm chocolate tart with maple/nutmeg cream and maple-glazed carrots; apple confit and caramelized apples with cider caramel and cheddar ice cream.
In January executive chef Justin Deering and general manager/wine director Brian Gavin, who worked together at Jeanty at Jack's, partnered up to roll out Conduit (named both for the electrical material and its role as gathering place for the community), serving American cuisine with French and Italian embellishments. Located on the ground floor of a new condominium complex in the Mission District at 280 Valencia Street, the 110 seat space gets a minimalist sculptural edge from a steel and copper-hued construction conduit affixed to the walls and ceilings and forming the bar. Pastry chef Majkin Klare rode over from Range. Reza Esmaili, seasoned restaurateur/mixologist extraordinaire, runs the spirits program. Apps ($9 to $14): chicory salad with cider vinaigrette, kuri squash, and ricotta; squab.chestnut risotto with mushrooms and huckleberries. Mains ($19 to $28): pan-seared perch with blood oranges, spinach, and currants; grilled guanciale with corona beans and olives. Desserts ($8): pear/hazelnut/crème fraîche financiers; bergamot orange/Earl Grey tart.
John Elkhay (chef/owner of Chow Fun Food Group, which owns and operates 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, Big Fish, Citron Wine Bar & Bistro, and XO Steakhouse) added an intimate Pan-Asian gem to his roster in March, the tri-level 34 seat Chinese Laundry, at 121 North Main Street. The main dining room, decked out with red and black lacquered walls and bamboo accents, has a peek-a-boo glass floor (which can be fogged for privacy) offering glimpses of the private dining room beneath and its naughty 10 seat table inlaid with a lifesize black-and-white photograph of a scantily clad Asian beauty. Along with designer sushi (think fish flown from Japan, freshly grated wasabi, house-made soy sauce), expect contemporary takes on classic dishes at the hands of Nicholas E. Rabar, Chow Fun Food's corporate executive chef. Apps ($6 to $20): satay of Chilean sea bass with wok-fried mustard greens; Peking duck moo sho with teriyaki foie gras. Mains ($16 to $45): wok-fried lobster with chow fun noodles; braised imported Kobe-style beef short ribs with garlic pea shoots.
Shawn Cirkiel, who made his mark as chef/owner of Jean Luc's Bistro (now closed), is back in the game with the February launch of the easygoing ingredient-driven Parkside at 301 East Sixth Street in downtown. The bi-level 300 seat space boasts a full-tilt raw bar, black banquettes and booths, and dark wide plank wood flooring. Pastry chef Callie Whigham hails from Austin's Mars. Apps ($4 to $12): raw fluke with lemon and almonds; beet/blue cheese/pistachio salad. Mains ($14 to $58): grilled pork chop with apples and brandy; grilled leg of lamb with charred peppers and olive sauce. Desserts ($7 to $8): cinnamon sugar doughnut holes with apple butter, butterscotch, and brandy; espresso fudge cookies with hazelnut malt.
In February, restaurateur Gavin Fine, owner of Jackson Hole's Rendezvous Bistro and Q Roadhouse, and chef/partner Roger Freedman, also of both ventures, unveiled their rustic Italianate getaway, Il Villaggio Osteria, in the Hotel Terra, a newly minted, minty green luxury eco-boutique property. The 65 seat interior is distressed in all the right places with reclaimed timber, stone archways, and worn white oak floors. An outdoor patio outfitted with a fireplace offers killer mountain vistas to another 20 guests. Chef de cuisine Paul O'Connor decamped from Jackson Hole's Old Yellowstone Garage. Apps ($6 to $13): grilled octopus salad with white beans, pickled vegetables, and spicy lemon vinaigrette; wood-fired pizza topped with goat cheese, leeks, and pancetta. Mains ($18 to $34): Sicilian-style grilled swordfish with tomato/caper/olive relish; crispy duck leg and cotechino, lentils, and mostarda di frutta. Desserts ($7): butterscotch pudding with biscotti; warm pear crostata with almond crème anglaise.
