As a former operating partner at The Little Owl and Market Table (where he is now just a partner), Gabriel Stulman is well versed in creating diminutive restaurants celebrated for their excellent food, drink, and service. His first solo venture, Joseph Leonard (opened in August at 170 Waverly Place), follows suit, accommodating 31 in a cozy setting and offering rustic American and French dishes, this time by executive chef James McDuffee, formerly of Bouchon Bakery. The interior feels worn and loved, with a patinated U-shaped zinc bar, lots of antiques, and portraits of oldsters (including photos of Stulman's grandfathers, the endeavor's namesakes).
APPS ($7 to $11): shrimp and grits with Vermont cheddar and andouille sausage; salt cod brandade with baguette, curry oil, and piquillo pepper marmalade.
MAINS ($12 to $25): crisp braised pork hock with arugula, capers, and lemon; whole fried fish with greens, onions, raisins, and olives.
DESSERTS ($6): carrot cake; salted caramel pudding with whipped cream and cookie crumbs.
Depending on your age, "B & O" evokes Monopoly or the glamorous rail travel of a bygone era. With the July launch of the B & O American Brasserie, add to these associations modern American dining in an historic setting. Adjacent to the new Hotel Monaco Baltimore (housed in the former Baltimore & Ohio Railroad headquarters), both the restaurant and hotel are part of the San Francisco-based Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants family. The Puccini Group (also based in San Francisco) designed the 146 seat space, fusing contemporary design elements, including an exhibition kitchen, with original Beaux Arts architectural details. Seats made from rich leather and tailored woods, inspired by vintage dining cars, round out the look. Executive chef E. Michael Reidt, recently chef at Sevilla (Santa Barbara), infuses classic American brasserie fare with mid-Atlantic flavors.
APPS ($7 to $14): fried oysters with smoked corn fondue, frisée, and bacon; smoked Carolina trout with salad and horseradish crème fraîche.
MAINS ($17 to $34): black trumpet mushroom dusted scallops with toasted farro, chorizo, kale, and mussel broth; steak-frites with duck fat fries, pickled red onions, and watercress.
DESSERTS ($5 to $7): cinnamon brioche bread pudding with chocolate surprise and black pepper ice cream; butterscotch pudding with gingerbread crisps.
Veteran restaurateur and chef Jim Fiala, owner of The Crossing, Acero, and Liluma, opened The Terrace View at the Citygarden (a new $30 millon sculpture garden) at 808 Chestnut Street in August. Nestled among trees and sculptures, the modern space seats 50 patrons indoors and an additional 50 on a seasonal outdoor patio. The menu steers Midwestern ingredients in a robust Mediterranean direction. With small and half-entrée-sized portions, and full-sized grilled meat dishes thrown in for good measure, diners are encouraged to graze and share.
APPS ($5 to $15): fried Great Lakes perch with salsa verde and tartar sauce; lamb kofta baked with pine nut jus and yogurt.
MAINS ($12 to $38): grass-fed beef shin in a crock with fingerling potatoes, local carrots, and horseradish crème; locally raised and grass-fed grilled rib eye with frites and truffle aïoli.
DESSERTS ($6): lemon semifreddo; chocolate torte with extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt.
In September, chef Mark Gold, a Patina Group alum who cooked at both Café Pinot and Leatherby's Café Rouge, and wife Alejandra Gold opened Eva Restaurant at 7458 Beverly Boulevard (formerly Hatfield's). The restaurant captures the mood of an intimate, elegant dinner party, seating 46 in a sparse dining room, the walls adorned with photographs from Hans Gissinger's La Conversation. A glass box displaying ingredients used in the tasting menu (prices vary) tempt guests. The menu is stripped-down and market-driven.
APPS ($8 to $13): lobster salad with tomatoes, mint, and feta; foie gras mousse with melon, Maldon salt, and vinegar.
MAINS ($16 to $19): Hokkaido scallops with rice, orange, chorizo, and Brussels sprouts; poached beef tenderloin, with cauliflower, salsa verde, and brioche.
DESSERTS ($6): roasted fig and brown butter roasted date with orange mousse and caramelized walnuts; French toast with smoked pears, BLiS maple syrup ice cream, and candied chestnuts.
