Issue: August 2007


Boston

Three of Beantown's culinary trailblazers are venturing to shiny new real estate developments and burgeoning neighborhoods. Next summer Frank McClelland will move the venerable L'Espalier around the corner from its Back Bay brownstone to the new Mandarin Oriental Boston Hotel & Residences complex on Boylston St. "With the limitations that we have on Gloucester St., I've taken L'Espalier as far as it can go," avows McClelland. "I believe that L'Espalier is ready for a world-class stage on which to showcase all the things that we do so well." McClelland will duplicate his Provençal Sel de la Terre, with co-owner/exec chef Geoff Gardner, in the complex at the same time. Meantime, the duo will open a second Sel outpost in the Natick Collection mall (Natick, MA) in September. • Barbara Lynch, who opened Stir (102 Waltham St.) in July, offering wine and cooking classes and a stellar library of cookbooks for perusal and purchase, will launch three concepts under a single roof next spring in the blossoming waterfront Fort Point neighborhood. The 14,800-square-foot space, tucked into a new condo project, will consist of a fine dining undertaking, a casual counterpart, and a bar/lounge. • And Todd English is jumping on the burger bandwagon with Oliver's, a gourmet burger joint named for his eldest son. At press time he was firming up the deal on a Post Office Square location and plans to open later this year. • In May Jack Bardy (owner of Pho Republique), Jennifer Epstein and William Keravouri (both industry newbies), and Darryl Settles (owner of Bob's Southern Bistro) launched the boho getaway The Beehive at 541 Tremont St. Original artwork, wood remnants, rescued tiles, and layered textiles create a gently worn, arty stage for an eclectic menu by chef Adam Halberg (formerly of Via Matta). • Pino Maffeo bought Restaurant L, where he's been exec chef for two years, and reopened in June as Boston Public after an extensive makeover. "Before, the food was modern European with Asian accents. Now it's predominately Asian and very protein heavy," explains Maffeo of the concept shift. • Opening late summer is Liberty Hotel, a 300 guest room property at 215 Charles St., in the abandoned home of the Charles Street Jail. The property is a joint venture of Carpenter & Company (Cambridge) and Kennedy Associates (Seattle) and is being operated by Kirkland, WA–based MTM Luxury Lodging. • Devotees of the popular London-based chain Wagamama can finally slurp its pitch perfect Asian-style noodles stateside. Spin-offs opened in Boston's Faneuil Hall Marketplace in April and in Cambridge's Harvard Square at 57 John F. Kennedy St. in August.

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New York City

Le Bernardin's Eric Ripert inked a deal to open a yet-to-be-named American spot in The Ritz-Carlton Philadelphia in its majestic rotunda space, currently undergoing renovations. The opening isn't until January 2009 so details are few, but Ripert promises, "It's going to be a casual elegant sexy environment." This isn't Ripert's first association with the company; he also consults for venues at The Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. And if all goes as planned, Ripert will open another restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton Washington D.C. • Keep your eyes peeled next fall for Eighty One (45 W. 81st St.), Ed Brown's first solo venture. Although best known for his deft hand with seafood, demonstrated during his tenure at The Sea Grill, Brown will serve an expansive American menu. Signed on as the front-of-the-house guru is Nick Mautone, former managing partner of Gramercy Tavern. • A lively game of chef musical chairs played out this summer. Scott Conant of L'Impero and Alto left the partnership and is summering as consultant at Sag Harbor's Tutto Il Giorno. Also on his dance card are September wedding plans, a line of signature cookware for Home Shopping Network, and a new cookbook, Bold Italian, due out in September. Michael White (late of Fiamma), who's spending the summer traveling and staging in Italy, steps in as Alto and L'Impero's new exec chef/partner. In related news, White is now partner/consultant at Due Terre Enoteca, which opened in April in Bernardsville, NJ. • In June, Michael Schulson exited the Buddakan kitchens to be replaced by Lon Symensma, an established member of the Buddakan team. Schulson is staying with the Philly-based Starr Restaurant Organization as an advisor on future projects and will be hosting a Style Network show called, ahem, Pantry Raid. • Zak Pelaccio flew the coop at 5 Ninth in June and was replaced by Daniel "Chino" Parilla, an internal recruit from the 5 Ninth kitchens. • Josh DeChellis left Sumile Sushi and at press time his replacement had not yet been named. DeChellis is next trying his hand at a tempura-themed restaurant, Bar Fry, opening in July at 50 Carmine St., with Rick Camac of 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab as partner. On a personal note, DeChellis is newly a father: "Jennifer DeChellis, my hero, gave birth to Mason Lawrence DeChellis on 06/07/07." • Stephen Wambach made the ascent from sous chef to chef de cuisine at NYC's BLT Steak, replacing Liran Mezan. • Dry-rub Texas Hill Country-style barbecue is the shtick at Hill Country, opened in June at 30 W. 26th St. with an all-Texas wine list. Owner Marc Glosserman recruited grilling expert Elizabeth Karmel as exec chef and competitive barbecue champ Robbie Richter as pit master. John Shaw, who has worked for Danny Meyer and David Bouley, is operating partner. • Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman (Five Points and Cookshop) bought Provence and reopened in April after a gentle sprucing up of the interior and menu. Co-owners are chef de cuisine Lynn McNeely, recently of Barbuto, and gm Aibhinn Wilson O'Keeffe, previously gm at Five Points. • Gramercy Park Hotel opened a fancy Chinese venture in July, Wakiya, eponymously named after its chef/partner Yuji Wakiya (who owns a restaurant of the same name in Tokyo). • Gordon Ramsay officially baptized the dining portion of The London Bar as Maze, after his small plates concept in London that serves as its model. • Although Charlie Palmer pulled the plug on Kitchen 22 in May, things are booming for him in other arenas. Palmer plans to move Aureole from its original brownstone location into The Bank of America Tower at One Bryant Park in spring 2009. And this summer, he opens two other places at Grand Sierra Resort and Casino (Reno, NV), his third Charlie Palmer Steak, along with his first seafood concept, Fin Fish. Fall looks to be as busy too, with Palmer unveiling Charlie Palmer at The Joule in the Joule Hotel, a new boutiquey number opening in Dallas. • In May Harold Dieterle, former The Harrison sous chef who won Top Chef's first season, and Alicia Nosenzo, formerly director of operations for Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abram's restaurants, opened Perilla (9 Jones St.). The seasonal American menu includes desserts by Seth Caro (previously of Nobu and Chanto). • Brasserie LCB (née La Côte Basque), shut down by the Department of Health last April, appears to have closed for good. At press time the phone number had been disconnected.

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Atlanta

Central Italian fare in an elegant 120 seat setting is the theme at Allegro, launched at 560 Dutch Valley Rd. in July. Owners—Italian natives all—are Alberto Fedeli (an industry newcomer), Mirko Di Giacomantonio (an owner of Figo Pasta), and Stefano Volpi (formerly a manager of Sotto Sotto). At press time, chef details were still being hashed out. • Kevin and Melissa Rathbun, along with business partners Cliff Bramble and Kirk Parks, brought designer steaks to Inman Park with the May opening of Kevin Rathbun Steak (112 Krog St.), just a stone's throw away from Rathbun's and Krog Bar. Drew Kirkland, who hails from Rathbun's, is chef de cuisine.

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Michigan

The crowning jewel of MGM Grand Detroit, opening at the end of the year, will be high gloss dining venues by A-list chefs Wolfgang Puck and Michael Mina. At Wolfgang Puck Grille, Puck infuses the traditional bar and grill concept with his sunny California style. Exec chef will be Marc Djozlija, a key player in the Puck empire. Tony Chi is designing the 190 seat space. Mina is coining two concepts. At the 200 seat Bourbon Steak, the Japanese design firm Super Potato mixes the old and the new, a perfect stage for Mina's fresh approach to classic steakhouse fare. Mina homes in on his forte, contemporary seafood, at Saltwater, where Chi draws on ocean motifs for the 157 seat space.

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Louisville, KY

Chef Dean Corbett, local TV personality and owner of Equus Restaurant and Jack's Lounge, is adding a third restaurant to his roster in September. Corbett's will be tucked into a restored historic building (5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd.) and will serve upscale regional American. Chef de cuisine John Hudson, an Equus vet, will join Corbett in the kitchen. • Michael Bonadies, founding partner of NYC–based Myriad Restaurant Group, jumped ship in April to spearhead the development of Louisville's 21C Museum Hotel brand nationally. The hotel's owners, Laura Lee Brown, Steve Wilson, and Craig Greenberg, originally hired Bonadies and Myriad to develop and manage the hotel's signature dining spot, Proof on Main. Joining Bonadies, who is president and CEO of the new company (ACE Unlimited), is Chett Abramson, a Myriad and Starwood alum who'll serve as ACE vp/COO, and, as ACE vp, Sarah Bradbury Robbins, also of Myriad, who supervised the on-site management of Proof.

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Los Angeles

Perched on the 21st floor penthouse suite of 811 Wilshire, Takami Sushi & Robata Restaurant and adjacent Elevate Lounge, opened in July, offer jaw-dropping views alongside its top shelf sushi. Top toque Kenny Yamada learned the trade working the L.A. sushi circuit. • Last seen at The Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club (Redondo Beach), Arturo Paz is new head chef at Republic Restaurant & Lounge (L.A.), replacing Gabe Morales.

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San Francisco Bay Area

Ducca, a Venetian gem designed by the SF–based Puccini Group, opened in June in The Westin San Francisco Market Street (formerly the Argent Hotel). Rick Corbo, formerly of Mecca (which closed temporarily this summer due to a fire), is exec chef. • SF's popular supper club Levende spawned an East Bay sibling in June, Levende East, at 827 Washington St. (Oakland). Exec chef Arren Caccamo is doing double duty overseeing both kitchens. • After nearly 10 years in business, Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining pulled the plug on Spago Palo Alto in May.

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New York State

In April, Steven J. Heyer stepped down as CEO and a director of the White Plains, NY–based Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide. Bruce W. Duncan, chairman and a director, fills in as interim CEO while the company searches for a replacement. • In April Four Food Studio and Cocktail Salon (Melville) hired James McDevitt, who decamps from NYC's Le Cirque, as exec chef. McDevitt replaces John Brill, who's taking on the post of COO for 515 Restaurant, the group that owns Four Food.

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