Issue: June 2008

With an eye to restaurant wine lists, our cellar reconnoiterer Jeffery Lindenmuth picks ideal new releases recently reviewed by Wine Spectator.

Note: Wine Spectator rates on a 100-point scale. 95—100: Classic, a great wine. 90—94: Out standing, superior style and character. 80—89: Good to very good, a wine with special qualities. Prices listed are average wholesale case prices.

Best Buys

Rosenblum Château La Paws Côte du Bone Roan California 2005

Made up mostly of Syrah, this loosely Rhône blend gains a little California influence from Zinfandel. Big juicy purple fruit—blueberry and blackberry—takes charge of the aroma, underscored by hints of meat and flowers. On the palate, the jammy fruit is nicely balanced with bright acidity and firm tannins that make the wine a good match for grilled meats. 6,699 cases made.

Score: 87    Cost: $128 per case


Best Buys

Hahn Syrah Central Coast 2005

This Syrah shows jammy mixed berry fruit aromas along with the classic varietal character of black peppercorn and violet. On the palate, the spice, blackberry, bramble, and cedar flavors are nicely integrated as they cascade through the finish. Full bodied and firm in its tannins from the addition of 11 percent Petite Sirah. 10,000 cases made.

Score: 87    Cost: $120 per case


Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côtes du Rhône Parallèle 45 2006

The label may have changed, but this perennial favorite, a blend of Grenache and Syrah, still delivers the same great value, offering juicy plum and floral aromas laced with just a bit of smoky grilled meat character. It's supple on the palate, with plenty of berry fruit, good firm tannins, and an iron-mineral finish. 60,000 cases imported.

Score: 87    Cost: $108 per case


Jade Mountain La Provençale California 2005

A five-grape blend including a handful of Rhône red varieties plus Viognier, this is a lean, balanced, easy-drinking wine, with modest tannins and a fairly crisp, clean finish. The red fruit flavors of raspberry and cranberry progress nicely from the aroma to the palate, enhanced by some clove and peppery spice. 2,147 cases made.

Score: 86    Cost: $186 per case


Highly Recommended

Château de Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

The quality of this vintage in Bordeaux touches wines at every level, making this bottling, dense with black cherry, prune, and blackberry fruit, smoke, and hints of citrus, an amazing value. On the palate, it pours on the intensity, full bodied and supple, with ample tannins to balance the sweet, licorice-like fruit. 17,500 cases made.

Score: 90    Cost: $260 per case


Concha y Toro Chardonnay Pirque Marqués de Casa Concha 2006

This Chilean white shows a good spectrum of fruit aromas and flavors, including stone fruit, apple, and lime. A touch of toasted nut and butter adds depth, while a nice mineral streak appears on the finish. It shows good complexity and deft winemaking, preserving its freshness and achieving lovely balance. 16,000 cases made.

Score: 90    Cost: $160 per case


Unión de Cosecheros de Labastida Rioja Castillo Labastida Reserva 2001

Made from 100 percent Tempranillo, this wine offers captivating complexity for the price, with cherry and kirsch flavors that have both presence and persistence on the palate. Secondary aromas of earth and tobacco, vanilla and herbs keep it firmly rooted in Rioja, while the ripe fruit and silky tannins give it contemporary New World appeal. 15,000 cases made.

Score: 90    Cost: $180 per case


Specials

Château Cos-d'Estournel St.-Estèphe 2005

Still a fraction of the price of the First Growth wines, this Bordeaux unleashes waves of sweet black fruit, spicy berry, and fig. The unusually ripe powerful fruit is balanced with abundant yet supple tannins that only augment the lavish texture. Needs years, possibly decades, in the cellar to reach its potential. 25,000 cases made.

Score: 98    Cost: $2,470 per case


Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Arcus Estate 2005

With its supple mouthfeel and plush texture, this wine is elegant and true to Pinot Noir. The cherry and raspberry fruit aromas swirl with rose, pepper, and a whirlwind of lively cinnamon spice. The fruit shows good intensity and freshness and wanes elegantly on the finish, with the softest of tannins. 962 cases made.

Score: 95    Cost: $800 per case


Château Climens Barsac 2005

This sweet Sauternes is dripping with tropical fruit, candied rind of lemon and orange, and spice. On the palate, the fruit is candy sweet, while the body is creamy, viscous, and dense. The tongue—coating fruit and sweet toffee flavors surge through the finish, with just enough acidity to provide balance. 2,300 cases made.

Score: 95    Cost: $1,200 per case


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