With an eye to restaurant wine lists, our cellar reconnoiterer Jeffery Lindenmuth picks ideal new releases recently reviewed by Wine Spectator.
Note: Wine Spectator rates on a 100-point scale. 95—100: Classic, a great wine. 90—94: Out standing, superior style and character. 80—89: Good to very good, a wine with special qualities. Prices listed are average wholesale case prices.Best Buys
Viña Montes Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley Leyda Vineyard 2005
This limited edition Chilean Sauvignon Blanc is a bit crisper and greener than the standard Montes offering. The flavors strike a great balance of ripe citrus—featuring pretty grapefruit and tangerine—along with a background of herbal, green pea, and bell pepper flavors. Lively acidity and a mineral quality appear on the palate. 8,000 cases made.
Score: 88 Cost: $112 per case
Ponzi Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Tavola 2003
The grape variety of the moment in a surprisingly affordable package, this Oregon Pinot offers lovely varietal character—cherry and raspberry fruit aromas, with a whiff of fresh herbs and smoke. The palate reveals good concentration and nice layers of red berry fruit with gentle tannins and a satisfying finish. 2,000 cases made.
Score: 86 Cost: $200 per case
Bogle Chardonnay California 2004
This megaproduction Chardonnay offers attractive tropical fruit—including mango—on the nose, along with spicy aromas that follow through to the palate. It’s plush and creamy in the mouth, tinged with toasty oak, vanilla, and caramel flavors, but with enough acidity and fruit to remain juicy and mouthwatering. 165,000 cases made.
Score: 85 Cost: $96 per case
Highly Recommended
Columbia Crest Syrah Columbia Valley Reserve 2003
The inviting aroma of this Syrah offers ripe juicy blackberries whirling with pepper, chocolate, and earth. Taking a cue from Côte-Rôtie, a dash of Viognier adds some citrus and floral notes to the olfactory mélange. The flavors are intense and well-balanced, with blackberry and blueberry lingering on the palate. 4,000 cases made.
Score: 91 Cost: $280 per case
Babcock Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills Rita’s Earth Cuvee 2004
A big concentrated nose of red and green apple is augmented by aromas of pear, lemon, and fig, with toasty oak chiming in. Rather full-bodied but wonderfully bright, with good lift from racy acidity driving the fruit through to the long finish. 2,155 cases made.
Score: 90 Cost: $200 per case
Argyle Brut Willamette Valley 2000
This sparkling offers some of the wonderful bready character of true Champagne along with rich aromas of tarte Tatin, warm spice, and toasted hazelnuts. On the palate, the flavors begin with sweet ripe fruit and vanilla, giving way to tart invigorating acidity. A super by-the-glass bubbly. 10,873 cases made.
Score: 90 Cost: $180 per case
Specials
Krug Brut Champagne 1990
Great pedigree and a notable vintage converge in this Champagne, which is big and extroverted with a richly layered nose of honey and spice, dark bread and fruit—including both apple and citrus. Full-bodied and luxurious on the palate, with a striking acidity, the fruit cedes to nutty and smoky flavors on the long finish.
Score: 97 Cost: $1,800 per case
Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot 2003
This Burgundian Grand Cru weighs in ripe and powerful, with black raspberry, black cherry, and sweet vanilla aromas that follow through on the palate. Alluring and fresh, it’s drinking well now and should also reward time in the cellar. 100 cases made.
Score: 95 Cost: $2,800 per case
Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Amancio 2002
Done in an international style, this vino de autor shows winemaker Marcos Eguren’s penchant for brazen reds with lavish oak. The wine actually sees new French oak barrels twice, resulting in toasty oak and chocolate flavors that rival the massive, ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit. Very generous on the palate with great structure.
Score: 93 Cost: $1,300 per case
