With an eye to restaurant wine lists, our cellar reconnoiterer Jeffery Lindenmuth picks ideal new releases recently reviewed by Wine Spectator.
Note: Wine Spectator rates on a 100-point scale. 95—100: Classic, a great wine. 90—94: Out standing, superior style and character. 80—89: Good to very good, a wine with special qualities. Prices listed are average wholesale case prices.Best Buys
Valentin Bianchi Malbec San Rafael Elsa 2004
A crowd-pleasing, fruit-forward wine from Argentina, offering aromas of raspberry and blueberry, cherry and plum. The ripe sweet fruit follows through in the flavor, with toasty oak and vanilla rounding out the bright New World style. 35,000 cases made.
Score: 88 Cost: $90 per case
Vietti Nebbiolo Langhe Perbacco 2001
This is no Barbaresco, but it’s close enough. With much of the typical varietal character of its more prestigious sibling—including aromas of dried roses, strawberry, cherry, and a whiff of tar—this has the makings of an affordable house Nebbiolo. Relatively light bodied, with lots of fresh acidity and fine tannins. 2,000 cases made.
Score: 87 Cost: $170 per case
Castle Rock Pinot Noir Monterey County 2004
Yes, there is such a thing as good affordable Pinot: this California version delivers classic cherry and berry aromas with pretty spice, which yield to riper flavors of plum and currants on the palate. The medium-bodied wine offers good persistence of bright fruit, a supple texture, and gentle tannins. 5,100 cases made.
Score: 87 Cost: $110 per case
Highly Recommended
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza Viña Hormigas Reserva 2004
This massive inky wine showcases all the big black fruit, tar, and smoke that make Argentine Malbec a natural with barbecue and other strong flavors. Subtle flowers and spicy cedar in the aroma add elegance. The flavorsome finish, with dense fruit and plentiful acidity, indicates some cellaring may be in order. 2,650 cases made.
Score: 92 Cost: $220 per case
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Riesling Kabinett Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Ürziger Würzgarten 2004
Low alcohol, racy acidity, and purity of fruit make this wine marvelously food-friendly. Aromas of stone fruit and crisp apple are accompanied by striking mineral flavors that smack of wet slate, followed by gentle spice on the long finish. 3,000 cases made.
Score: 92 Cost: $200 per case
Grgich Hills Chardonnay Napa Valley 2003
In typical Grgich style, this wine eschews malolactic fermentation, resulting in a full-bodied wine that retains freshness and crisp acidity. The ripe pear and peach flavors are enhanced by gentle almond and hazelnut and lovely spice. 21,770 cases made.
Score: 88 Cost: $370 per case
Specials
Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series 2002
A striking rendition from this cool-climate region of Australia, this iconic wine offers pretty pear, ripe nectarine, and zesty grapefruit aromas punctuated by spicy clove and wisps of toasty oak. The flavor is lush and honeyed, with more stone fruit, and showing impeccable balance through the very long finish. 500 cases imported.
Score: 96 Cost: $600 per case
Alban Syrah Edna Valley Reva 2003
This Rhône specialist delivers a rich and concentrated wine with unmistakable Syrah character: from the blackberry and black currant fruit to the gamy dried beef and black peppery spice. Nicely integrated oak adds some cedary spice to the rich, chewy fruit flavors, and muscular tannins close the curtain with gusto. 1,140 cases made.
Score: 96 Cost: $672 per case
Quinta do Vallado Douro Reserva 2003
Made using traditional Portuguese grape varieties, this wine’s deep, opaque color betrays its concentration. The aroma is exotically complex with notes of five-spice and dark chocolate balancing dense figgy fruit and dark plum. Big lush flavors complement ripe, soft, and seductive tannins on the long finish. 2,000 cases made.
Score: 94 Cost: $350 per case
