Drink Arts: Beer Tails
As a silver bullet refresher, it seems nearly impossible to improve upon a cold beer. But that has never held back enterprising bartenders. Jeffery Lindenmuth savors some modern cocktails in which beer makes a stir.
As early as the 18th century, Englishmen tossed back the refreshing shandygaff, a mix of ginger beer and ale. In cooler weather, wassail—spiced and sweetened warmed ale stoked with roasted apples—prevailed. However, the most enduring beer blend remains the Victorian-era Black Velvet, a vexingly delicious concoction of Guinness and Champagne, reputedly created in 1861 to mark the death of Albert, the Prince Consort of Queen Victoria.
Following in the footsteps of the blue-collar boilermaker, a beer supercharged with a shot of whiskey, creative mixologists are now combining beer with spirits, liqueurs, and syrups. Still doubtful that mixing beer is mainstream? Anheuser-Busch recently introduced a prepackaged Chelada, a mixture of Budweiser and Clamato based on the Mexican Michelada, a cerveza preparada traditionally made by blending beer with lime, hot sauce, and Worcestershire or Maggi Seasoning.
Beer Cassis Created by Jim Meehan, PDT, New York City. A beer twist on the French kir. 1 oz. Dubonnet Rouge • 1/4 oz. Jules Theuriet Crème de Cassis de Dijon • 6 oz. Brooklyn Brewery Brooklyn Local 1 • lemon twist. Add Dubonnet and cassis to a mixing glass, fill with ice, and stir; strain into a white wine glass. Top off with beer and garnish with lemon twist.
Jugador At Fonda Solana, Albany, California. An upscale twist on the refreshing Hop, Skip, and Go Naked. 3/4 oz. Bombay Sapphire gin • 3/4 oz. fresh lime juice • 1 splash simple syrup • 10 oz. North Coast Brewing Co. ACME California Pale Ale. In a pilsner glass combine gin, lime juice, and simple syrup. Top off with pale ale.
Liquid Smoke Created by Dan Barringer, The Fifty/50, Chicago. Combines like flavors of malt and smoke by using both beer and whiskey. 2 oz. Rogue Smoke ale • 2 oz. Lambrusco • 3/4 oz. Ardbeg 10-Year Single-Malt Scotch • 3/4 oz. cold smoked water • 1/2 oz. Grand Marnier • 1/4 oz. BarrManDan's sour mix • 1/2 tsp. aged balsamic syrup • splash of cola • barbecue spice rub. Combine liquid ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a rocks glass filled with fresh ice and rimmed with barbecue spice rub. To make smoked water: Place ice cubes in a smoker and melt over cherrywood smoke.
Black Magic Created by Peter Kane, managing partner, The Stanton Social, New York City. The flute is a more recent introduction, but this classic beer blend dates back over a century. 3.5 oz. Gaston Chiquet Brut Champagne • 3 oz. Guinness Extra Stout. In a Champagne flute, add the Champagne, then top with the stout.
Pennsylvania 75 Created by Michael Cecconi, Back Forty, New York City. Inspired by the French 75, but using a Pennsylvania microbrew in place of Champagne. 1 oz. Bluecoat gin • 1 oz. fresh lime juice • 1 oz. ginger simple syrup • 6 oz. Victory Prima Pils. Combine gin, lime juice, and ginger simple syrup in cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a pilsner glass. Top with beer. For ginger simple syrup: Cut 1/2 lb. ginger against the grain into 1/4" slices. Combine with 1 pt. simple syrup in a blender and puree. Separate pulp from syrup, using a fine mesh strainer. Makes 1 pt. syrup, enough for 16 cocktails.
