Shades of Mustard

Joyce Goldstein samples a palette full of palate awakening mustards and suggests how each best finds its niche in the kitchen.

Posted: June 8, 2009

Stepping into the condiment aisle of the supermarket and seeing the vast array of mustards, I witnessed American retail at its best and worst. There was an excellent selection of mustards from France, Germany, and England, as well as American classics such as ballpark yellow and basic brown deli mustards. And then there were the flavored mustards representing American "creativity" and fanciful fancy food marketing, taking the concept of mustard and running with it madly, wildly, and often unnecessarily.

Commercial mustard producers employ three kinds of mustard seeds—yellow, brown, or black—the latter two used more often in European hot mustards as they are stronger and more intense. Mustard colors range from yellow to greenish gold to dark brown, depending upon the seeds used and the liquids used to thin the powder.

Mustard powder may be dissolved in cold water, white wine, vinegars (such as apple cider, distilled white, balsamic, and Banyuls), as well as grape must, beer, ale, porter, and whiskeys. As hot liquids dissipate mustard's flavor and pungency, most commercial companies are careful not to let the mixture get above 110°F.

Mustards may be sweetened with sugar or honey. Flour may be added for body and to cut heat. Mustards can be creamy in texture; others have coarsely ground mustard seeds added to the creamy base for textural interest. Spices such as turmeric, paprika, and peppercorns, and other flavorings such as garlic powder, honey, ginger, chiles, horseradish, shallots, tarragon, and fruit purees may be added too.

Here's a snapshot of the mustard shelf:

Ballpark or yellow mustard: Yellow mustard seeds and lots of turmeric produce its vibrant gold color. The mustard is loosely creamy in texture, mild, tart, and salty, with the underlying bitterness of turmeric. If you grew up with this one, it's the benchmark, making other mustards seem too intense. Good on hot dogs and on thin hamburgers. It's also good on the very American ham-and-cheese sandwich on white bread.

Brown mustard (deli-style): A mixture of brown and yellow mustard seeds, it's darker and thicker than Dijon, creamy with some flecks of the brown mustard seeds, vinegary, and comes medium-hot or hot. Although there's no horseradish listed, I get hints of it in the background. This is the mustard I grew up with. I can't eat a pastrami or corned beef sandwich without it. I like to add a spoonful or three into the dressings for potato salad or coleslaw.

Dijon mustard from France: Gets its tartness from white wine and some vinegar. It has a creamy smooth texture and is a lovely green-gold color, mildly hot but not biting. (American-made Dijon styles have sugar and are milder and less tart.) If I were to have just one mustard in my larder, this would be it because it's the most versatile. I add it to salad dressings for emulsification and add a teaspoon when making mayonnaise. I mix Dijon mustard with a little milk and a beaten egg and dip boneless skinless chicken breasts in this mixture, then dredge in bread crumbs and fry for a spicy schnitzel. I add a spoonful to cream and white wine sauces for classics such as lapin à la moutarde (rabbit with mustard sauce) and daube de veau (veal stew). And for 40 years I have used it to make Julia Child's classic mustard glaze for leg of lamb: combine 1/2 cup Dijon, 2 Tbsps. soy sauce, 1 clove garlic, mashed, and a pinch of chopped rosemary in a bowl; gradually beat in 1/4 cup olive oil; spread on the leg of lamb before roasting. Minus the rosemary, it's also a great rub for prime rib roast. I also use it as a marinade for lamb chops for the grill or for lamb loin: warm 1/4 cup Sherry, 1/4 cup honey, and 1/2 cup olive oil over low heat; add 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint; let them steep; whisk in 2 to 3 Tbsps. Dijon and 1 Tbsp. freshly ground toasted cumin seeds.

Whole-grain mustard (old-fashioned or à l'ancienne); Moutarde de Meaux or Pommery: This style of mustard has lots of crunchy whole black and brown seeds in a creamy base. It's chewy, not hot or overly tart. In fact, I find it needs a bit of acid. It's ideal to brush on lamb racks, which are then dipped in a mixture of minced shallots, chopped flat leaf parsley, and bread crumbs before roasting. Also good in salad dressings: 1 tsp. whole-grain or Dijon mustard, 2 Tbsps. vinegar or lemon juice, 1/4 cup olive oil.

English mustard (Colman's): The prepared is brown-gold in color, thickened with flour, and hot and salty. I can taste turmeric, though it's not yellow. This mustard will serve to accompany roasted pork or beef, also sausages, especially English bangers and Cumberland sausages. In the Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna regions of Italy, cooks braise meat in milk to tenderize it. After cooking, the resulting sauce appears curdled. I whirl the sauce in a blender or food processor for a more uniform texture and whisk in a few tablespoons of the English mustard.

Colman's mustard powder is a combination of brown and white mustard seeds finely ground into mustard flour. It's used in the preparation of bottled English mustard under the Colman's label, established in 1814. When mixed with a cold liquid such as water, beer, or vinegar, it produces a mustard with a bit of a kick. It's also used in the preparation of Chinese mustard, so you know how volatile it can be. If you add a teaspoon or so to salad dressings and sauces, it can replace or supplement bottled prepared mustard. Also, no self-respecting Maryland crab cake can be made without a dose.

German hot mustard, Düsseldorf-style: Brown in color, thick and sturdy in texture, and very hot and intense. The ideal mustard for German/Eastern European sausages, bratwurst, and the like. I use it to make a lively mustard butter to spread on grilled steak, pork chops, or fish: blend 2 Tbsps. mustard and 1/2 lb. butter. And I mix this with a bit of apricot jam for a great condiment for cold cuts or as a coating for baked ham: combine 1/4 cup of this dynamite with 1/2 cup brown sugar and a bit of orange juice to make a paste for baked ham or pork roast.

Horseradish mustard: Bitter, medium-hot, and very tart. I think it's best on pork products, either on smoked pork chops or stirred into pork stews. And it certainly helps cold roast beef. Also, add to mayonnaise for potato salad, drop in a few spoonfuls to perk up mashed potatoes, or mix some into ground beef for burgers.

Chinese mustard: This is simply mustard powder mixed with cold water. It's best to make it yourself or get some to go from your favorite Chinese restaurant (bought prepared, it's tricked up with sugars and spices and is very salty). It's very hot and pungent and brings tears to the eyes. Essential for dim sum such as har gow or shu mei, barbecued pork and ribs. I like to thin it with oil and vinegar and spoon it over rare tuna.

Creole mustard: Essentially a creamy mustard with some coarse ground seeds, it's sour and medium-hot. Good on all manner of sausages, especially boudin blanc, and great added to deviled eggs or stirred into barbecue sauce.

Honeycup mustard: A Bavarian-style sweet/hot mustard, this is stone ground with some flecks of seeds, very thick, and somewhat elastic in texture. It tastes a bit floury. Sweet from brown sugar and honey. Mildly bitter aftertaste but not much acid to speak of. To use as a glaze for grilled pork and poultry: thin 1/2 cup honeycup mustard with 1/2 cup soy sauce and 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar. The glaze is also good on salmon and tuna. I also mix this mustard with melted butter to coat warm sliced cooked beets and parsnips.

Sweet and hot mustard (Mendocino): Another Bavarian type, it's greenish brown, elastic in texture, sweet, with some heat, but not too tart. It's a bit grainy in texture. My mother used to make a mustard like this. I always thought it was Russian-style. She would serve it on sliced tongue. I like to use it in a vinaigrette for tongue or cold boiled beef. Also ideal for mustard dill gravlax sauce: combine 1/4 cup sweet and hot mustard with 1 tsp. dry mustard and 2 Tbsps. white vinegar; gradually whisk in 1/2 cup peanut or canola oil; fold in 2 Tbsps. chopped fresh dill. To marinate flank steak before grilling: mix 1/2 cup sweet and hot mustard with 1/4 cup soy sauce, 3 Tbsps. Sherry, and 1/4 cup brown sugar.

Tarragon mustard: Creamy Dijon is combined with tarragon leaves and a bit of green coloring. Very mild; I think it needs a bit more acid. I mix it with mayonnaise for a sandwich spread for chicken or ham, add it to dressings for beet, carrot, or potato salads, and brush it on salmon before grilling. It's also good for deviled eggs. Stud a 5-pound pork loin with garlic slivers and spread with 4 Tbsps. tarragon mustard; roast at 450°F for about 45 to 60 minutes or until a meat thermometer tests 140°F internal temperature; remove the pork from the roasting pan and let it rest on a carving board; pour off most of the fat from the pan; deglaze with 3/4 cup chicken stock; add 1 1/2 cups heavy cream and 3 Tbsps. tarragon mustard; simmer for a few minutes; season, adding more mustard if you like and some chopped fresh tarragon.

Walnut mustard from Périgord: Walnut paste is added to classic Dijon mustard. I really like this one. Serve with rustic pâtés, cold veal, or pork. I like to spread it on cheese sandwiches and mix it into salad dressings made with walnut oil.

Green peppercorn mustard: Basic Dijon with crushed peppercorns. Rather tart, it's good folded into mayonnaise for a sandwich spread or a dip for crudités. I add it to the deglazing liquids in the pan after sautéing steak or burgers. And I mix it into ground beef for burgers.

Grape must or violet mustard: Will catch your attention with its dark purple color. It's chewy and crunchy and sweet. Not much tartness or heat but carries a perfume-like scent. Good with hard cheeses and salumi.

Apricot, cranberry, black currant mustards: The fruity mustards are sweet, not too hot, and are best spread on biscuits with slices of country ham or used on turkey sandwiches. Good with cold cuts and spicy sausages.

Mostarda di frutta: Mustard oil and some powder added to cooked fruits. It's served as a condiment with salumi and cooked meats, but it's not really a prepared mustard. I like to make my own.

Dijonnaise: a cross between mustard and mayonnaise. Uses: sandwich spread, potato salad.

And, if that's not enough, consider: wasabi mustard; ginger mustard; Moroccan mustard; basil mustard; balsamic mustard; beer, porter, or ale mustard; Jack Daniel's mustard; Champagne vinegar, white wine vinegar, or balsamic vinegar mustard; hickory smoked mustard; chile mustard; honey/habañero mustard; toasted onion mustard; Sauvignon Blanc mustard; garlic mustard; jalapeño mustard; balsamic/shallot mustard; crunchy cranberry mustard; orange/espresso mustard; Zinfandel/orange mustard; sesame mustard; Merlot mustard; chocolate mustard; truffle mustard.

Joyce Goldstein is the former chef/owner of Square One Restaurant in San Francisco. The author of 26 cookbooks, she is now a food and restaurant consultant.