Deep Dish: December
Valerie Gladstone / December 2012
NEW YORK CITY
Two distinguished restaurants fade from view, with Alain Ducasse shuttering Adour in the St. Regis Hotel last month and Gilt ceasing service in the New York Palace Hotel this month. Seemingly undisturbed, Ducasse threw a party for 200 of the world’s most Michelin-starred chefs on the French Riviera shortly thereafter, while chef Michel Richard began to make plans for three spaces in the New York Palace Hotel, including a formal dining spot, a bistro, and a pastry shop. No word yet on what will replace Adour. • Daniel Boulud shifted his chefs around in September, giving Olivier Quignon, exec chef of DBGB Kitchen and Bar (299 Bowery Street), the toque at Bar Boulud, replacing Damian Sansonetti. He promoted Eli Collins to Quignon’s former position at DBGB Kitchen and Bar. Sansonetti did a pop-up called Sonnet in Newcastle, Maine, in October. • ESquared Hospitality appointed Shaun Hergatt exec chef and principal in September, giving him responsibility for opening Juni in the Hotel Chandler (12 E. 31st St.) in June 2013. He was most recently at Sho Shaun Hergatt now called The Exchange at The Setai Wall Street. • Early October saw quite a variety of openings. Crema’s chef/owner Julieta Ballesteros brought her own special combination of Mexican and Asian food to her new spot, China Latina, at the Hotel Indigo (127 W. 28th St.). • The new Graffiti Me (224 E. 10th St.) is a little bigger than chef/owner Jehangir Mehta’s Graffiti next door, giving more diners a chance to try his tasting menu. • Salumè (202A Mott St.) also expanded, with chef Steven Hubbell running the kitchen. He previously served as exec chef at Pure Kitchen Catering in Chicago. • After two years of offering their pastries at food fairs since teaming up in 2010, Christina Ha and Simon Tung opened their own place, Macaron Parlour, at 111 St. Marks Place, in October. In addition to a selection of more than a dozen traditional macarons, they also serve a variety of baked goods including raspberry croissants, blondies, oatmeal/raisin and chocolate chip cookies, and sticky buns. • Restaurateurs Tora Matsuoka and Jeffrey Resnick brought a branch of their Sen (12 W. 21st St.) in Sag Harbor to the city, awarding Bryan Emperor the toque and giving Hiro Sawatari control over the sushi. Emperor last worked at Kalu in Charlotte, NC, and Sawatari at Sushi Yasuda. • Despite Superstorm Sandy, in the lead-up to the holidays, several restaurants arrived in town in November. Restaurateur Chris Cannon inaugurated All’Onda (22 E. 13th St.) with former Ai Fiori chef de cuisine Chris Jaeckle. • New spots offering Asian cuisine sprouted all over town. Chez Sardine (183 W. 10th St.) moved into the old Tre Merli space, with the blessing of restaurateur Gabriel Stulman and his chef and partner, Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, who wanted to try offering their version of Japanese izakaya. It’s right next door to Stulman’s Fedora, where Brunet-Benkritly was also chef. • EMM Group opened the huge 199 Bowery (199 Bowery), inviting chef Hung Huynh to create the Southeast Asian menu. He is also chef at the group’s Catch. • Chef Masa Takayama, who owns the famously expensive Masa, established Tetsu (78 Leonard St.) in a triplex, where each floor has a separate menu and concept. • Korean food stars at chef/owner Hooni Kim’s new Hanjan (36 W. 26th St.). Kim also owns Danji. • Jonathan Morr, partner in BondSt and Republic, opened Cherry (355 W. 16th St.), taking on as consultants, chef Julie Farias from Goat Town and Andy Choi from Le Cirque. • Shoppers at the new Tommy Bahama store (551 Fifth Ave.) not only have a wide choice of clothes, they also have a choice of drinking and dining spots. The Marlin Bar is on the first floor and the restaurant, Tommy Bahama Restaurant and Bar, on the second. Hoping to transport diners to tropical climes, chef Jason Michael Krantz designs a Caribbean-influenced menu for both locations. He previously worked at the Flatiron location of Blue Smoke. • Owners Doug Jacob and Will Malnati established Willow Road (85 Tenth Ave.) in the former John Dory space, offering the toque to Todd Macdonald, formerly of Cru and Clio. • A new branch of Ippudo, named Ippudo Westside (321 W. 51st St.) is slated to open next spring, giving ramen fans another dining destination. • Chef Julieta Ballesteros served as consultant for MexiBBQ (1633 Second Ave.), which is slated to open this month. • New restaurants continue to invade the outer boroughs. Co-owner Ben Daitz and chef/co-owner Saul Bolton teamed up to establish Red Gravy (151 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn). Bolton already owns Saul and The Vanderbilt, and Daitz is co-owner of Num Pang Sandwich Shop. • Louis Coluccio Jr., grandson of the founder of famed D. Coluccio & Sons in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, established A.L.C. Italian Grocery (8613 Third Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn) in October, hoping to replicate the original Italian restaurants in the neighborhood. The open kitchen offers house-made foods for carry-out. The store also serves various beverages, such as espresso and Italian soda, and features eight counter stools at the storefront window. Chef Michael Kogan, who assisted with the opening of the neighborhood Owl’s Head wine bar, consulted with Coluccio on the menu, along with in-house chef de cuisine Kailee Pete, who studied at the Italian Culinary Academy in Parma, Italy. • Chef/owner Michael Psilakis brought his second MP Taverna (31-29 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria) to a neighborhood that knows a lot about Greek food. He opened the first in Rosyln, NY.
José Andrés and ThinkFoodGroup reopened minibar by josé andrés (855 E Street, NW) in a new location in November. Over the summer he and his culinary team, led by research and development director Rubén García and Jorge Hernández, developed the menu.
Chef James Boyce inaugurated his new restaurant, Café Alana Shay (6000 Memorial Parkway Southwest, Huntsville), at the renovated DoubleTree Suites by Hilton Hotel in October. His fifth restaurant in Huntsville, it marks his return to hotel dining. He previously worked at Studio at Montage Laguna Beach and Mary Elaine’s at The Phoenician in Arizona before moving to Huntsville to open Cotton Row, Commerce Kitchen, Pane e Vino, and James Steakhouse.
Restaurateur Tommy Wang opened MAK (Modern Asian Kitchen) with his father, Eugene (1924 W. Division St., Chicago), which started serving customers in October. Tommy Wang also owns the nightclubs The Drawing Room and Evil Olive, and his dad once owned and served as chef at Tien Tsin. • A chef shuffle occurred at graham elliot (217 W. Huron St., Chicago) when exec chef Andrew Brochu departed. Now Elliot himself is spending more time in the kitchen, assisted by pastry chef Bryce Caron and exec chef Merlin Verrier. Moves paid off with a second star awarded by Michelin.
Joël Antunes is returning from London to take over Ashley’s in the Capital Hotel in Little Rock. Lee Richardson left this summer. Ashley’s sous chef, Matthew Bell, plans to open his own restaurant, South on Main, after the first of the year.
Justin Cline Macy became the new exec chef at Miraval Resort & Spa (5000 E. Via Estancia Miraval, Tucson) in October. He started out in 1999 at age 17 working alongside his mother. His wife, Kim Macy, is the pastry chef.
Simply running the popular market Cookbook wasn’t enough for chef/author Marta Teegan and grocery expert Robert Stelzner, so they launched their new restaurant, Cortez (1356 Allison Ave., Echo Park), in October. • Raw food expert Matthew Kenney established his third restaurant, M.A.K.E., in Santa Monica in October. It also has an adjacent culinary school, as does Matthew Kenney OKC in Oklahoma City. Chicago’s In the Raw has no school; however, online classes are also available.