Deep Dish: January/February
Valerie Gladstone / January 2013
New York City
After numerous delays, Sanne Ytting, a Dane who relocated to Manhattan in 2000, partnered with Copenhagen chef/restaurateur Adam Aamann to open Aamanns-Copenhagen (13 Laight St.), specializing in updated smørrebrød. Even the dense rye bread is made in-house. • Italian pasta company Giovanni Rana launched the restaurant Giovanni Rana Pastificio and Cucina in Chelsea Market (75 Ninth Ave.), which serves a full menu in addition to pasta dishes. Francesco Berardinelli, who previously owned spots in Italy, oversees the kitchen. Giancarlo Perbellini, a Michelin two-star chef from Italy, serves as consultant, alongside Antonella Rana, daughter-in-law of the company owner and the restaurant’s namesake. • Ariel Contreras-Fox, former chef de cuisine at Acme, now heads the kitchen at Harding’s (32 E. 21st St.). • The Flatiron Room (37 W. 26th St.) appointed Heather Greene whiskey sommelier, the first ever woman to hold that title. She was formerly a brand ambassador of Glenfiddich. • Owner Sean Josephs of Char No. 4 in Brooklyn and his chef/partner Kyle Knall decided to pay homage to Bourbon in their new Manhattan spot, Maysville (17 W. 26th St.). It’s named for the Kentucky town that first distilled the liquor after the Revolutionary War. • Chef Fredrik Berselius of the former pop-up Frej and Eamon Rockey of Atera have opened the modern Scandinavian restaurant Aska in the former Frej space (90 Wythe Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn). • Also in Brooklyn, Ian Cronin, Sabra Saperstein, and Jeff Pan, who have been taking part in Williamsburg’s popular outdoor market, Smorgasburg, settled into a real building, naming their restaurant Skytown (921 Broadway). • Following on the heels of Qi Bangkok Eatery (675 Eighth Ave., Manhattan) and Qi Asian Eatery (31 West 14th St., Manhattan) comes Qi Thai Grill, which opened at 176 N. Ninth St. in Brooklyn, in December. Chefs Pichet Ong and Sripraphai have each created special dishes to headline the classic Thai menu of Kea SiwaSila. Ong has grilled items and desserts, while Sripraphai does a selection of small plates. • Wolfgang Ban and Eduard Frauneder, the folks behind Seäsonal and Edi & the Wolf, opened The Third Man, an elegant lounge evoking early 20th century Vienna (named for the Orson Welles movie) at 116 Ave. C in the East Village in December. • NYC’s Beacon restaurant closed its doors on December 22, after 14 years of operations. Exec chef Waldy Malouf has been appointed senior director of special projects at The Culinary Institute of America. Malouf’s High Heat pizza and burger spot in Greenwich Village remains open.
Piperi (1 Beacon St.), the Greek word for peppercorns, arrived in town in December, a Mediterranean-inspired fresh food concept from chef/partner Thomas John, who previously worked at Au Bon Pain and Mantra.
Partners John Fulchino and exec chef Ann Cashion joined forces to open Taqueria Nacional (1409 T St., NW) in January. The 2,660-square-foot space has both indoor and outdoor seating. Fulchino and Cashion also own Johnny’s Half Shell.
Robb Duncan, the artisanal gelato maker and co-owner of Dolcezza (2905 District Ave., Suite 155, Fairfax), is slated to open this new location of his popular gelato spot in January. • With two floors, Daikaya (705 Sixth St., NW) can dedicate one space to ramen and the second to re-creating an izakaya, or tavern, offering comfort food, sake, and specialty cocktails. Partners Daisuke Utagawa, Yama Jewayni, and exec chef Katsuya Fukushima chose the name, which means “house of big cooking pots.” Looks like it will definitely be that. Fukushima was previously at ThinkFoodGroup by José Andrés.
Andy Choi became exec chef of BondSt (150 20th St., Miami Beach) in the Townhouse Hotel. He was formerly chef de cuisine at Le Cirque in NYC. •Roberto Neri moved into the position of head toque at Viceroy Miami, having previously served in the same capacity at Bella Vista at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara, CA.
21c Museum Hotels, the boutique hotel, contemporary art museum, and restaurant group, opened Metropole (609 Walnut St., Cincinnati). The kitchen is under the direction of Michael Paley, who was previously at Proof on Main in Louisville, KY. He is also exec chef/partner at Louisville’s Garage Bar.
Dino Pérez, owner of Rio’s D’ Sudamerica, named his new spot, Suite 25 (2529 N. Milwaukee Ave., 2nd Floor, Chicago), which started serving craft beer and beer-based cocktails in December. • Restaurateur Amy Morton and exec chef Nicole Pederson partnered to establish Found (1631 Chicago Ave., Evanston). Morton, who previously owned Mirador and Blue Room, worked with her father, Arnie Morton, at his namesake restaurants in Chicago. Pederson previously served as exec chef at C-House. • Lee Wolen is now chef de cuisine at The Peninsula Chicago’s The Lobby restaurant. He was previously Daniel Humm’s sous chef at Eleven Madison Park in NYC and, prior to that, at elBulli in Spain.
After almost 23 years of business, Sanford (Sandy) and Angie D’Amato have sold their award-winning restaurant, Sanford, plus the family building in which it resides, to their chef de cuisine, Justin Aprahamian, a 10 year vet of the D’Amatos’ kitchen. Aprahamian and his fiancée, Sarah Mudrock (who has worked for the D’Amatos for nine years), will retain the long-standing service team and “modern ethnic” menu. The D’Amatos will continue to consult for the restaurant.
Wolfgang Puck returned to the MGM Grand Detroit hotel and casino with two new restaurants, Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria & Cucina in November and Wolfgang Puck Steak in December. Exec chef Marc Djozlija, former chef of Wolfgang Puck Grille and a 16 year veteran of the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, helms the kitchen at the pizzeria, but a chef has not yet been named for the second.
Bertrand Bouquin became exec chef at The Broadmoor (1 Lake Ave., Colorado Springs), following the retirement of chef Sigi Eisenberger. Bouquin joined the Broadmoor in 2005, after holding the position of exec chef at Maisonette in Cincinnati.
Las Vegas–based hospitality and management company The Light Group established one new restaurant and relaunched another in December. They include Citizens Kitchen & Bar, helmed by corporate exec chef Brian Massie and the refreshed Red Square, both at Mandalay Bay, where Chris Conlon serves as exec chef under Massie. He previously worked at The Light Group’s Fix Restaurant & Bar at Bellagio.
Suzanne Goin, chef/partner of Lucques, Tavern, the Larder at Maple Drive, and A.O.C. with partner Caroline Styne, changed the location of A.O.C. in November, moving into the recently shuttered Il Covo space (8700 W. Third St., L.A.). • Helen Peters became exec sous chef at Tapenade (7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla) in December. She was previously sous chef at Sunset Bar and Grill. • Sherry Yard, longtime pastry chef at Spago and exec pastry chef at Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, has teamed up with Father’s Office and Lukshon owner Sang Yoon to revive L.A.’s classic Helm’s Bakery on Venice Blvd. in Culver City, which closed in 1969. The 10,000-square-foot bakery, which is slated to open in September 2013, will house a cafe that will serve breakfast and lunch. The first stage of the endeavor is to serve some of the breakfast items, followed by breads and pastries, at Father’s Office. Della Gossett, previously at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, will replace Yard at Spago.