Remembering Michael
Posted: September 2, 2010
Food Arts’ much loved founder/editor-in-chief Michael Batterberry passed away on July 28. Though many of you have already posted, tweeted, or e-mailed your memories or condolences, Food Arts editors would like to ask you to please share your thoughts, remembrances, or stories with us directly on FoodArts.com. Do you recall any of the anecdotes with which Michael the raconteur regaled friends and associates? Did Michael encourage you in your career or help you to realize your dreams in some way? Would you like to comment on his influence in the industry? A collection will be published in the December issue.
Member comments 56 comment(s)
Jonathan N — NYC — September 3, 2010 10:55am ET
Julie Mautner — Provence and Milwaukee — September 3, 2010 12:21pm ET
Michael was one of a kind. I was so very lucky to know him, to work for him and to be someone he called when he had great gossip! The Bat was my go-to guy on so many subjects: no matter the question, he'd have an answer. I smile thinking of all the times I called him from some restaurant table somewhere in the world, with a question about some obscure ingredient, taste, or item of tableware I was encountering. His depth and breadth of knowledge was astounding, and not just on things culinary--on music, art, theater, architecture, history, you name it. He was unfailingly generous...and that laugh! Oh man, it was so great to make the Bat laugh. What a sense of humor he had. I hope he knew how much we all loved him...
Meryle Evans — NYC, NY — September 3, 2010 5:02pm ET
As a Batterberry devotee for over three decades, each encounter with the Bat provided wonderful new insights into the world according to Michael. No matter what hairbrained idea I presented, he would listen intently, smile, think, and come up with a way to make it work. I loved his enthusiasm for shaping an idea into an article and for connecting people and projects. But what was most memorable to me was his courtesy and kindess - he was the ultimate Renaissance role model, interested in everyone and everything.
Jim Jondreau — Southampton, NY — September 4, 2010 12:54pm ET
Michael was a true Renaissance man and a good friend to most everyone who had the good fortune to know him. He was a colleague of James Beard, a friend of Julia Child and mentor to many.
He was responsible for getting some of today’s best chefs to realize their dream and helped so many others along the way. At this year’s James Beard Awards Dinner, he and Ariane were given the Lifetime Achievement Award by the JBFoundation. Dan Barber, notable chef and guest speaker, said that night: “Michael & Ariane live the life we all want.” How truly remarkable that life was for him. He will be greatly missed.
It was a great privilege to have known him.
Jim Jondreau
www.cafejondreau.com
Beverly Stephen — New York City — September 4, 2010 5:46pm ET
Working with Michael was like being seated next to a fascinating dinner partner. He was conversant in all the arts--not just culinary. He always knew the must see play or film, the must read book. He said it was important to keep up with the zeitgeist. For more about life with Michael at Food Arts see our staff written Tribute in the September issue.
Jan Greenberg — Rhinebeck, New York — September 6, 2010 9:34am ET
When I first began to free-lance, I sent Michael Batterberry a query letter.. I didn’t expect to hear anything (I was learning!!) but he called and assigned me a piece. The fact he himself called! It was Food Arts; a cover piece and beautifully done, was a validation. Although I was always totally intimidated whenever I would occasionally meet him, he always remembered me and inquired about what I was doing. And he seemed genuinely interested. Obviously, I didn’t know him at all –— but I do know what he did for me.
Peter Breslow — Philadelphia — September 7, 2010 10:29am ET
Rehoboth Beach Chef Jay Caputo wrapped up a summer long video series with a heartfelt tribute to Michael Batterberry. Chef Caputo was shooting this film, which showcases Jay cooking lobster with ocean water, on the day Mr. Batterberry died. Ironically, Mr. Batterberry was quoted recalling, “the best meal he had ever eaten was on a fishing boat off the coast of Greece, which featured fish seasoned with only the ocean water it was caught in.”
Please copy and paste this link to view the film:
http://www.youtube.com/user/dudeisoneverything#p/a/u/0/NTh6E6drozc
Chef Caputo felt that one of the most influential inspirations of his life and countless culinary professionals and home cooks worldwide passing away while he was filming this, was a sign that this film should become a memorial. I hope you enjoy.
Merrill Shindler — Los Angeles — September 7, 2010 2:08pm ET
As a rule, when a writer is told that the Publisher would like to speak with him, the writer's stomach does a few flips. But that was never true when Beverly would tell me that Michael wanted a few words with me. For a chat with Michael was always an adventure, usually beginning with some kind words about an article that had been written. And then followed by some suggestions that were always -- always! -- right on the money. Michael had an unerring sense of what took a story beyond interesting, into the realm of fascinating. He perceived the world of cuisine (and pleasure) in an alternative fashion, seeing it from a different angle, with fresh eyes. He understood...things. He also had that wonderful, mellifluous voice. And he dressed so well. No matter what I wore to the office, he was dressed better. He was the Art Cooper of the food world. He was the one and only. We are the lesser for his departure...
Patrick McDonnell — Sante Fe, NM — September 7, 2010 2:53pm ET
Michael was my friend and my mentor for over 30 years. From the evening in 1979 he and Ariane first came into my small restaurant in Baltimore, to my days in New York City and beyond, and our 20 plus years together at Food Arts, he was my guiding light in all things culinary. He was and will remain a Titan, who with Ariane created and shaped the American food scene as we know it today, and in so doing established a worthy place for the American chef in the world at large. I will miss him terribly, but I am also blessed to have known him and experienced his friendship.
David Lincoln Ross — New York, NY — September 7, 2010 4:09pm ET
Michael was the most sensitive, yet demanding editor I have ever worked for, gently coaxing ever greater efforts than you believed possible to round out a story with a bit more reporting or deftly able to tighten your phrasing in a lead paragraph. As a contributor to Food Arts and as his editorial colleague at M. Shanken, though Michael was a deep-down italianophile, he took my love of all things French seriously, and was always open to my story ideas for his wonderful magazine. Through his love of history and story-telling, Michael knew more saucy anecdotes from the pens of Francois Rabelais, Laurent Grimod de la Reyniere, Retif de la Bretonne and Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin than anyone, anywhere! He was a brilliant editor, engaged with life as few are and I miss him so much.
David Lincoln Ross
Bill Milne — New York City — September 7, 2010 4:12pm ET
It is a time of reflection on all that he brought to our industry. Great memories.....
Dave ARnold — New York City — September 7, 2010 5:31pm ET
Michael Batterberry was a giant in the food world for over forty years. Long before we Americans were interested in what chefs were up to, Michael dedicated himself to improving the stature of that profession here. Along with his wife Ariane, he founded Food and Wine Magazine, Food Arts Magazine, and wrote the definitive history of dining in New York. You can read about his life and accomplishments here, and here. He went to great lengths to introduce people he thought should meet, and he made forceful recommendations for people he believed in. He decided I was right for the FCI’s Director of Culinary Technology position and cajoled the school into hiring me. I would not be who I am without him, and countless other people in this business can say the same thing. Michael was always searching for what was new –what was next. His eye was on the future but he had a deep appreciation for the past. His breadth of knowledge was staggering.
A few things the obituaries don’t mention: Michael was a sartorial wizard –the most dapper man I ever met. Despite always being the best dressed man in the room he was never, ever snobbish or stuffy. He could show up to a pig-pickin in a three piece suit and look perfectly at home. He had an amazing voice that easily held a room. His wit was sharp and dry but never biting. He was a great raconteur, but was also eager to listen.
Michael was gracious and generous and I am proud to be one of his protégés. I am sad I won’t see him again, but sadder for those who never got to meet him.
From Nils
Nils Noren — New York City — September 7, 2010 5:33pm ET
Michael was truly a great man in so many ways, and meant so much more to our industry the most people can comprehend. I personally have Michael to thank for many things. He gave me the chance to write, together with Dave, for Food Arts magazine, something I never thought I could really do. Michael was such a great visionary and when he spoke, you listened. His wealth of knowledge was so incredible. I never met anyone who knew more about the history of dining in this country and around the world, and who could also tell what the next big thing was going to be. Michael was opened minded and always curious about new things. He never dismissed new techniques or equipment. On the contrary, he embraced them and he embraced progress, something I admired much.
I don’t know how many people in the food industry have Michael to thank for their success, but I know that there are a lot of us. There will be a huge void without Michael here, and we will miss him tremendously. But we will do everything we can to honor his memory. Skål Michael!
Tags:
Peter Meltzer — New York, N.Y. — September 7, 2010 5:49pm ET
I knew Michael Batterberry for 33 years. In 1977, he and Ariane hired me as their wine editor at the International Review of Food & Wine, as Food & Wine magazine was then called. We worked together in various capacities ever since. What’s more, strong professional ties quickly evolved into a close personal relationship.
Michael and I probably spoke every week and saw one another at least once a month for the past three decades. Michael was my mentor and a cross between the older brother I never had and a father figure. He was someone I knew I could always turn to, no matter what the occasion. In this capacity, I’m sure I was not alone.
One of my last memories was sharing a bottle of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1970 with Michael, Ariane and my wife Heather at the Batterberry’s apartment this spring. We examined the wine’s color and bouquet and then took a deep sip. It was mouth-filling. The Mouton gets a terrific 96-point score from Wine Spectator, and is in part described as “extremely concentrated, generous and sensual.” Glancing across the room, I felt I was experiencing Michael Batterberry in the glass.
Toni Robertson — New York — September 8, 2010 9:01pm ET
I have had the pleasure of knowing and working on occasion with Michael for many years, and like most professional chefs will tell you, what was always most evident in conversations was his unwavering passion for the culinary arts and his insightfulness into food as it relates to the world around us. He was singularly unique both in perspective and perception. But what I think is truly Michael’s most important contribution to our profession was the quiet impact he had on chefs around the world… his ability through his magazines, lectures, and dialogue to enlighten and educate, and to encourage chefs to push past their own preconceived ideas and explore new ground. Way before it was fashionable to talk about a global palate, Michael was introducing ideas about emerging cuisines and the use of global ingredients to create new tastes and flavors. He was disruptive and deviously creative in the best sense! How often we all turned to Michael’s books and magazines for that little spark of inspiration and how many menus around the world were a result of some divine influence after reading the latest Food Arts. I will always remember Michael not as a great writer or publisher, a ground breaking connoisseur of fine dining, nor will I remember him solely as a good friend and colleague. Instead, I will remember him as a mentor and teacher, who influenced my sense of everything that is good in food and wine, how it pushed me to explore new ideas and take chances, and how it made me a better chef. And for that I will miss him greatly.
Benoit Gateau-Cumin — Beverly Hills, California — September 9, 2010 1:37pm ET
As a contributing "authority" for Food Arts for the past sixteen years or so, I enjoyed spending time with Michael and Ariane on several occasions. He was the like of what the French called "un honnête homme" in the 18th century: not only an honest kind, but an enlightened and educated one who could discourse on any subject without being the least bit pedantic. His knowledge of food, wine and history were exact: pity the poor soul who would try to pull the wool over his eyes: Michael's steely gaze could hurt more than a dagger! He was a dandy in the best sense of the term. We will all miss him.
Angie Baker Gannon — Summit, NJ, USA — September 9, 2010 4:46pm ET
I had the pleasure of working with Michael from 1995-1999 as a member of the Food Arts family. What a wonderful man; so generous with his knowledge, his humor and his life experience. I had the pleasure of sharing an amazing, once in a lifetime meal with Michael and Ariane at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago. For a young woman of 24, it was something out of this world! I was in awe of the pair. Michael, thank you for the wonderful lessons you taught me. I will carry them with me always. You are missed.
Irene Sax — New York, NY — September 11, 2010 1:43pm ET
Michael was a great editor, one who could point you in the right direction with a few words and then trust you enough to leave you alone. He was an elegant man--my husband's word for him was "cultivated"--who could talk about anything but never showed off. His manners were of an earlier time but his interests were completely up-to-date. Surely everyone who knew him must miss him.
Elizabeth Schneider — New York, NY — September 14, 2010 11:37pm ET
Michael's influence is vast and continues to grow as the many he advised and encouraged take their place in the food world.
I believe that I am one of the most fortunate to have benefited from his prescience, his creativity, and his risk-taking. Without his warm encouragement, I doubt that I could have survived as a journalist and author. He was one of those rare editors who greeted unfamiliar subjects--no matter how specialized or esoteric, with an open mind and authentic enthusiasm. Thanks to his curiosity and adventurousness, I was able to explore an enviable gamut of topics for three decades, first in Food & Wine, then in Food Arts. Without his confidence in me and the platform he built at Food Arts, I could not have pursued my interest in this country's produce or have written my last book, Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, a work Michael championed from its first appearance as a little sprout through its full-grown development.
I am not alone in this privileged position. Every conversation with Michael included rich praise of old friends and new acquaintances, and vivid descriptions of cultural and culinary events. With his far-reaching vision, he connected us all to make a helpful network. His prodigious memory embraced and retained the specifics of meetings and travels and meals and books, and these he shared generously with family, friends, colleagues, and readers who will never forget him.
Jacqueline Hanson — Minneapolis, MN — September 15, 2010 2:36pm ET
I had the pleasure of working with Michael on the Emerging Tastemaker Awards over an all too brief period of time. His respect for chefs and his world view are two things for which I will always be grateful. I'm so honored to have had an opportunity to work with him and his team, however briefly. He and his wife were delightful dinner companions and I will always admire his gracious nature.
I'm so sorry to hear of his passing.
Rose Levy Beranbaum — New York, N.Y. — September 16, 2010 6:40pm ET
When the International Association of Culinary Professionals did a profile on me, and asked what person of all time I would chose as a dinner companion, without hesitation I chose Michael Batterberry. He was warm, charming, erudite, a brilliant raconteur, a visionary, a mimic, a humorist, and a loyal friend. I left every encounter with him wrapped in a warm glow and inspired to do my best work. The only time I ever screamed at him was on the phone when he asked me to be a contributing editor to Food Arts. It was an involuntary scream of joy for which he graciously forgave me.
Suvir Saran — NYC, NY — September 17, 2010 9:31am ET
Ariane and Michael created a world of support, comfort and hope for all those young minds and souls that came knocking at the doors of Food Arts and looking for inspiration, a footing and more.
Barely out of my teens, I found in Michael and Ariane a reason to believe in myself. If they believed in me and my dreams, I decided it was OK to have such dreams and aspirations.
Better still, they provided all the support, all the connections and all the opportunities that one would need to keep dreaming and bettering themselves. Their partnership was dreamy, their personalities beyond brilliant and special and their ability to smile and give another hope something that is hard to find in this world. It is to both of them that I owe any and everything I have done in American since the age of 23.
Michael was part friend, part Uncle, part father and part God. Playing all these roles without perhaps even knowing, or perhaps with knowledge but without ego or control. Firm - always but very generous of himself and of the latitude he gave me in exploring that which I wanted to try. His reflections on that which was captivating my attention at any given moment were never too harsh if I were wasting my time, nor too gushy if I had succeeded in finding something relevant. They were constant in that magical way that Michael alone could give you support and advice - With a deep rooted belief in you and that you would succeed no matter what, as long as you did what was in your heart, what you believed in and what you did well.
Michael called me daily when my father was ill and this was for over 6 months. He was there even as distance separated me from NYC and what was home then. It was this kind of generosity that set him apart from other mortals. I cry as I remember him. These are tears of sadness not for his loss, but for the loss that many will face as they live a life without being touched by the combined genius of Michael and Ariane.
As I celebrate Michael even in his absence from this life, I also salute Ariane for what she brought to Michael and the rest of us. I know Ariane will continue where Michael and she left as a team, and only make the glow of Michael that much better with her own passion, magic and talents.
They were a special couple together. They were special individually and they will remain special in the lives of all the many that they touched together and alone.
We were fortunate, each of us that met Ariane and Michael - to have been blessed with their presence. And now as we celebrate Michael in his new abode, high in the sky, watching us mortals as he did every day whilst here. I know he will guide us even as we may crave his voice or laugh or stylish ways. But he will never be too far to guide us and inspire us even in the future. All we need do is to think of him and the many wonderful stories he left us with and Michael shall always be immortal.
Michael - you were a shining star. Protean in your capacity to change with time, in your ability to entertain the many different kinds of people you surrounded yourself with and you were deeper than any ocean I can think of. I throw pebbles of hope upon that vast sea of strength, hope, opportunities and magic that you have left me with, upon the banks of which I sit and watch the ripples that celebrate your amazing persona.
What an honor it was to have met Ariane and you. What an honor it was to have known you in the form of Michael Batterberry that we all miss today. And it was the blessing of all blessings that you agreed to write the foreword to Indian Home Cooking. You blessed me and my first-born in ways the world will never know or fathom. I am eternally grateful to you and shall always remain.
Suvir
Norman Van Aken — Coral Gables, Florida — September 17, 2010 12:55pm ET
In 1987 I opened a tiny restaurant in Key West, Florida with the man who owned “Louie’s Backyard” where I had been the chef for four years. I had not made a name for myself beyond South Florida at that point but my first cookbook was about to be published in New York and it was conceivable that those of the most earnest curiosity might have gotten word of “a Key West chef” but it was utterly unexpected by me.
The phone rang in our kitchen. Baker Sue answered it and said, “Hey Chef. A man named Michael Batterberry says he’s from New York City…. some magazine and he wants to talk you.”
Michael Batterberry calling me! The same man whom, along with his wife Ariane, created “Food and Wine” magazine and now were onto a new magazine called “Food Arts”. I took the phone and sat in the floor staring at a blood spattered apron that covered my shorts.
I spoke softly as if trying not to wake myself from what I determined must have been a dream I was in, “Hello.”
He said in his “Hello. Norman?” in his mellifluous baritone that was as distinctive in its style as Julia’s higher register if less well known.
“Yes, this is”, I answered this time perhaps more audibly.
“Michael Batterberry here. Tell me more about this style of cooking I keep hearing about from my friends who are visiting you in Key West. Is it Spanish?”
Little did I know then that over the course of the next 20 + years we would become not only colleagues but friends and even receive the “Madrid Fusion” award in Spain together. Other folks I would have never thought possible for me to shake hands with one day were also feted with that award. They included Alice Waters, Paul Prudhomme, Judith Jones and Mark Miller. Michael and Ariane had a great deal to do with me having that opportunity. Talk about help? He put me on the cover of Food Arts in 1992. He was there as an advocate for chefs not only in the busy city he called home but out in the farthest points in America. He was the consummate architect, reporter, trend-tracker and herald of the new emerging American Cuisine we have all come to now know. Before the age or even the very term ‘celebrity chefs’ he got what we were all striving for and he helped us “travel” with him and the Food Arts Family around the world with Michael’s optimistic vision as a beacon.
Monte D. Young, CSW — San Antonio, TX., USA — September 17, 2010 2:38pm ET
I did not know him personally, but he and his wife's excellent publication is fantastic! I love reading through it whenever I get a chance. As an "Older than typical new cook," I see and read things about great Chefs, and fabulous cuisines in FoodArts, and it makes me realize the possibilities of what I can do! My wife and I are deeply sorry for you and your families loss, and for the loss of a great person for the culinary world in general. In his memory, I am going to make my wife and I a great meal tonight, and open one of my last bottles of 03' Don Melchor.
Cheers to you, and all of the cooks! MDY.
Liz Williams — New Orleans, LA, USA — September 17, 2010 4:55pm ET
Michael and Ariane were in New Orleans for a meeting. They came to see this new Southern Food and Beverage Museum, which at that time was just open a few months. We were still learning what we were doing, trying to create interesting exhibits and establish an infrastructure that would last for generations, as a museum should. He was so supportive. He said that he and Ariane knew what a start up was like, having created two magazines from scratch. With real interest and kindness he asked probing questions and gave me lots of encouragement regarding the idea of establishing a cultural museum that viewed the world through the lens of food. It meant a great deal that he bothered to be curious, warmly encouraging, and complimentary of the entire concept, even while understanding that we were still developing. The museum received a mention in Food Arts, another form of encouragement for us, when it is really only tangentially related to the magazine. He was quite a gentleman. And we are over 2 years old now, and I will never forget the encouragement.
Scott Steenrod — Miami, FL, USA — September 21, 2010 9:26am ET
In July of 2009, We had the distinct pleasure of Michael and Ariane joining us for the launch of our newest ship, Celebrity Equinox, in Southampton, UK. From our first meeting, I stood in awe that such influential leaders in the world of food and wine were in our midst, joining us for this truly special occassion...The naming of our newest ship. As the evening progressed over dinner in Tuscan Grille, Michael regaled us in a way that only he could with rich tales of his experiences, travels and his love and passion for food, wine, the arts and our profession...And it was all delivered with that one of a kind style that was uniquely Michael.
Little did I know that Michael's life was entering its twilight and that we would lose him just one year later. That evening with Michael and Ariane will forever stand as one of the highlights of my life. And as Ariane continues to shine Michael's light on our world, I will be forever grateful for having had the opportunity to share a few privileged hours of my life with him; the inspiration he and Ariane provided that evening will forever guide me in all that I do.
Scott Steenrod
Director, Food and Beverage Operations
Celebrity Cruises
Kerry Heffernan — New York NY — September 21, 2010 3:43pm ET
Not only did I have the privilege and honor to know Michael, I was fortunate enough to be able to have his eloquent and sage advice at an early stage of my career.
On reflecting, it is amazing how much I still cook with the guidance,vision and respect for ingredients, he imbued me with.
I will not soon forget the extraordinary sense of class, elegance and style he brought just by walking in the room. I can only hope to be able to pass on to a younger generation, a small part of what I learned, and observed from him.
He always represented a world of refinement and kindness, that unfortunately now seems to be from a bit of a bygone era
I know the term "Legend" gets passed around a lot these days, but if I had one vote for a such a category he would most certainly be it.
Michael you will be dearly missed, here's hoping that we can all do your legacy honor
Eric Ripert — New York City — September 21, 2010 4:26pm ET
Michael was a real monsieur, a true gentleman and such a great proponent of our industry. He was a true visionnaire and because of his vision Food Arts became one of the first major magazines to inspire, encourage and champion so many of us. He was always kind and courteous and incredibly supportive of those he believed in. I pay homage to his passion and will certainly miss him.
-Eric Ripert
Farmer Lee Jones — The Chef's Garden, Huron, OH — September 23, 2010 1:00pm ET
Wow, Michael Batterberry. It’s hard to encapsulate just how special this man was to me and my family. He was a mentor and the best you could ever ask for. He believed in me; he showed so much respect and genuinely cared.
Michael Batterberry was one of the most eloquent speakers I ever heard. I heard him speak at public forums numerous times and time just seemed to stand still. He managed the English language like none other. I could literally have listened to him for hours, because he exuded knowledge seeming to somehow be knowledgeable about all things.
Every time I popped into his office unexpectedly, regardless of how busy he was, he stopped and took the time to listen, and every single time asked me to send him more info on the subject we were discussing. He always wanted us to keep him in the loop about what we were doing. At the same time, every time we spoke, I learned something from him.
He educated us on the farm; he empowered and challenged us yet encouraged us. He had enough confidence in our farm and me to send his editors here more than once, so he gave us credibility. He also helped us tremendously with the development of The Culinary Vegetable Institute.
To me he will always be bigger than life and there will never ever ever be another Michael Batterberry. He was the classiest man I ever met. He was respectful and demanded a certain level of respect - not because he asked for it but because he deserved it.
One of the things that made us most proud in our short part of history in the industry was having his encouragement and approval. He was the bar – all things must pass through Food Arts if they’re worth their salt. Yet he was not judgmental, rather he was more of ambassador of what’s right in the industry.
Of Michael Batterberry – I’m really gonna miss you, sir – your words, your encouragement, your sense of doing the right thing and doing it first class or not at all. At the 25th anniversary of the Silver Spoon Awards, of course orchestrated by Michael and Ariane at the newly renovated Plaza Hotel with some of the finest musicians this farmer has ever heard, I knew it was a special night. I remember thinking never again will this amazing group of people ever be assembled for such an event. Now that you’re no longer with us, I’m certain. Thank you so much for the wisdom you shared, the help and support you gave, and the encouragement you will continue to give in our hearts.
Rudolf Sodamin — Coral Gables, Florida — September 23, 2010 1:58pm ET
I first met Michael when I had just published "The Cruise Ship Cookbook" in New York. It was 23 years ago and I was then the corporate chef at Cunard Line and Executive Chef QE2 . Michael was such an inspiring person, a gentlemen throughout, who worked from his head and heart. His sharpness was second to none! And he was truly the Wikipedia of culinary resources. Whenever I asked him for any advice, whenever I was struggling with something (such as the idea of making the chef more visible through Guest Chefs at Sea programs and other appearances), he was immediately fond of the idea and helpful. In this case, that's how the first Culinary Chef Summit at Sea was born on the QE2 all those years ago. It's an unforgettable memory, all of us there together: Dorothy Cann, Jacques Pepin, Sirio Maccioni, Anthony Blue, Meryle Evans, Jacque Torres, Alain Sailhac, Lord Wedgwood--and Michael and Ariane, of course. Michael, I appreciated your friendship and those wonderful dinners we had together at Le Cirque with Sirio. You will be missed from my bottom of my heart!
Rudi Sodamin
Sylvie Bigar — New York — September 24, 2010 12:03pm ET
"Consider it assigned!" trumpeted Michael on our last conversation. I had just gone through why I thought a particular story would be perfect for his beloved magazine. Michael was a Mensch but I particularly cherished his enthusiasm and passion. He was on the writer's side, a true partner, the best editor one could ask for. With Arianne, he formed a mythic couple. I miss him already.
Piero Selvaggio, The Valentino Restaurant Group — Santa Monica, CA — September 24, 2010 5:06pm ET
I have been lucky to have been with Michael in a number of food panels. It was a joy to be next to him, listening to his remarks, his immense knowledge of the food world, his wisdom, his desire to keep freshness in every subject. We all know how dapper and handsome was his figure and his behavior, which he related to his very stylish magazine. Through Ariane, his legacy and style will continue, since he captured all of us and we can truly say that he was bigger than life.
Lolis Eric Elie — New Orleans, La — September 26, 2010 7:49pm ET
Even before the voice, there was the suit.
Michael Batterberry was always clean. His tailoring bespoke an Old World elegance in this casual prêt-a-porter world. A chalk stripe suit, a striped shirt and a tie of subtle patterns? Who else but Michael?
Then, the voice. Old England? New England? You never knew quite where it came from, but it was authoritative. This man knew, and you knew you would be wise to listen when he spoke.
And he had jokes!
I really can’t remember all the things he said to break up the house during the Southern Foodways Alliance symposium on Eugene Walters. But trust me, his words were a highlight of that weekend.
And trust me on this as well:
We have lost a great editor and a great man.
John T Edge — Oxford, MS — September 27, 2010 5:33pm ET
Michael was a member of the food cognoscenti. There was no doubt about that.
But what made him such good company, whether at table or on the other end of a phone line, was that he lived a fuller intellectual and aesthetic life than most of us.
He could hold forth on literature. He could hold forth on music. Yes, he believed that food was its own sort of art, but he didn't stop there.
Ariane Daguin — D'Artagnan — September 30, 2010 9:24am ET
Michael was a man with infinite curiosity and a deep intellectual need to understand the world. Luckily for those of us gastronomes , he turned his attention to the table. He gave us so much: countless articles and insights and two important food magazines, with which he inspired and informed so many of us. Personally, I will always appreciate his support of D'Artagnan from its earliest days,and terribly miss his vast cultural knowledge and sense of humour .
Chef Walter Staib — Philadelphia, PA — October 6, 2010 4:39pm ET
To know Michael Batterberry was to know the culture of food. I met Michael too many years and too many meals ago to remember, and by the time I decided to write my first cookbook in 1999, I thought of no one better to turn than the man who had dedicated his life to making the culture of food synonymous with culture at-large, a man who saw wisdom in studying where we had been and where we were going.
“Americans are pausing to reassess their national past and present in hopes of learning from what went wrong and, whenever possible, preserving what went right.” Those words, graciously written by Michael in the forward to my City Tavern Cookbook, ring as true today as they did then; as a nation, we must always remain students of our own history and look to the works of individuals who contribute so much to it, and we would all do well turn our attention to the life and works of Michael and all that he did right in his lifetime. Michael, more than anyone else, knew that it is not only armies that march forward on their stomachs, but culture as well. Our relationship with food moves us as a people, leaving a rich history and always giving us a promise, or a warning, of what the future may hold.
Michael, along with his wonderful wife Ariane, worked tirelessly to bring us into a closer and more satisfying relationship with the things we eat and the things we drink, pushing us to a better understanding of our culture and ourselves. In his life, as in his writing, Michael was charming and insightful and I join with the rest of those who knew him in cherishing the warmth and wisdom that he brought to the world.
Katie Kissane Vola — Aspen, Colorado — October 15, 2010 12:41am ET
Fresh out of art school I felt there were no boundaries in design. Follow you heart, make something beautiful, something smart and it will work. Well, most every one of my design friends found themselves prohibited with the rules of marketing, sales, and most importantly ... trends. But not me, because I was blessed to be a designer for Food Arts Magazine and have Michael Batterberry (the Bat) as my editor/publisher who was not following trends but setting them. Food Arts was my dream job. Michael and Ariane encouraged us to let our imagination flow as we designed the pages of the magazine, we cut and glued and painted and manipulated images to our hearts delight and he was right here with us. It was a designers dream come true. I eventually became the art director of Food Arts and loved every second of it. I still have all of the covers I worked on with Michael. But my favorite is one that touches me deeply. It was after several years of art directing that I left my position at Food Arts when my mother was diagnoses with terminal cancer. She was a fashionista, a foodie and a native New Yorker. Michael loved my stories about her, so when I presented the cover ideas for my last issue, the best of the year issue "On a Silver Platter" I included a cover with an illustration done by my mother, it was simple and spontaneous sketch of chef holding silver platter. Michael said, "It's a cover!" and that was it. Mind you, the Bat was very particular of his gorgeous covers, so it was a true honor. It was a grand gesture to me, a gesture of respect that revealed his huge heart.
Since then, have never been prohibited by the rules of design because Michael showed me that I did not have to be. Make it beautiful, make it smart.
He is still and always a great inspiration to me, and I can not thank him enough for that freedom.
I was lucky enough to thank Michael last year at the Food Arts BBQ in Chicago for not only being a great inspiration to me but for providing the opportunity for me to meet my very best friend and amazing husband Paul who also designed for Food Arts. We owe so much to the Batterberrys for showing us that life should be lived to the fullest. Thank you Michael.
Gael Greene — New York, New York. USA — October 15, 2010 3:17pm ET
In my farewell I saluted Michael's grace as somewhere between Fred Astaire and Cary Grant and especially appreciated his role as a culinary matchmaker.
I was shocked at the indignity of what seemed a premature death. His passion and inventiveness were so young. He never gave in to old fogyness like some of us. He was always open to new tastes, young talent, molecular daring and seemed to know what the next big thing would be…perhaps because he gave it a name in Food Arts.
It was just a few months ago we shared dinner at the Four Seasons where he told stories from the days of Joe Baum, the Kovi-Margittai years, and the Seppi Rengli kitchen. Graceful, ironic, biting, fun. Impossible to think he could go so quickly.
Wherever you were heading – Delhi, Barcelona, Tunisia, Cancun – Michael knew someone you should meet before you left and once you arrived, and an angle you might not have thought of for the story that would suit Food Arts’ professional readers. Horizons and friendships expanded through the connections he made for me and so many.
“A stylish couple, the Batterberrys. And perfect complements,” I wrote in a New York article about four cocktail parties called “The Sensuous Hors d‘Ouevre” in September 1976.
“Michael, the artist,” the copy read. “Ariane, the cheerleader. Michael cooks. Ariane handles social communications, cleanups, endless last-minute errands. Their accents are cultivated. The décor is brilliant clutter. Vaguely Middle Eastern and other ethnic tidbits are crowded on a table draped to the floor with a Victorian velvet-and-satin patchwork quilt."
“People are responding to the unusual, “ Michael observed. “We love a meal of many tastes. And it’s all self-service tonight. Passing hors d‘oeuvres interrupts good talk.”
The Bats, as their friends came to call them, stand at a big round table in black tie and brocade in Dan Wynn's glittering photograph. At the time they seemed so Scott and Zelda to me. I wanted to go home and copy everything. Tapestry walls. The vintage French mirror. Eighteen inch tapers in the Venetian candelabra. That patchwork quilt.
“Those who stay on will sit down for a peaceful pasta and a salad with fruit,” said Michael. It would be heaped on a Thai altar-offering plate.
“We collect dishes from everywhere,” said Ariane. “Especially footed dishes,” as she pointed to an antique Indian plate, “possibly a leper’s,” she said. “Sterilized, of course.”
I recall a formal evening with them in 2003, just the three of us. He wore classic black tie and velvet slippers with his father's evening wallet in a back pocket.
A twist of jet and chunky rhinestones from Ariane's huge costume jewelry collection glittered against the velvet striped black chiffon of her Gianfranco Ferre tunic. They were unfashionable early for an American Ballet Theater gala. To read more click here please.
http://bit.ly/bPWpX8
Steven Rowe, on behalf of the Rowe family — New York, NY — October 16, 2010 8:44pm ET
For the past few hours, I've struggled to translate my thoughts onto paper. This is far and away the most difficult message I've ever had to write: ironic as it's about the man who taught me most about the power of words. I'm finding it difficult to grasp the endless expanse of thoughts and emotions swirling around in my head. Michael would tell me to just let it flow. And so I will:
No words--even from Michael's own unbounded vocabulary--can describe how immensely Michael touched our lives and how much we miss him. He was family: he was a brother to my parents and called me his nephew. But in truth, I considered him my second father.
What saddens me most is the insufficient amount of time I spent with him. I wish I had cooked for him--only very recently have my skills in the kitchen evolved from simply being able to make scrambled eggs. I also wish he had cooked for me. At the very least, I wish we had shared more meals together.
I do, however, hold many special memories of the times that I did have the privilege of enjoying Michael's company. I first met him when I was 11 or 12 (although he had known me since birth). My father and I journeyed from our home on 83rd and 2nd to the Batterberry residence on 83rd and Madison. I remember being incredibly intimidated by the most well-dressed man I had ever seen. But soon I experienced the familiar comfort one often felt around Michael, as he opened a small glass jar and asked, "do you like capers?" I responded, "what are capers?" which was embarrassing since my father's gourmet food store, Paradise Market, had sat on the corner under the Batterberrys' building for decades.
Other fond memories include working at Food Arts in the summer of '07. Every morning at around 11:30 AM, I would walk from my desk to Ariane's office, say hello, and then walk into Michael's to discuss anything from my future--I was a rising senior in high school, so college was a relevant and frequent topic of discussion--to ideas for potential stories. I learned many things that summer: I learned that I'd never go into publishing. I learned that being disorganized and having a messy desk didn't mean one couldn't become great. Most importantly, I learned that living is doing what you love, as shown by Michael's colorful history.
Michael, we love you.
Jai, Sabina, and Steven
Joan Nathan — Washington, D.C. — October 19, 2010 2:31pm ET
When I received the call that Michael had died, I felt that a little sunshine had disappeared from my life. I realized that I would never hear Michael’s marvelous voice again. I loved it when he called. A great raconteur, he always had a story or an idea to share with me. Of course he would shmooze about some wonderfully gossipy event. In the early years, I loved hearing about people like Leo Lerman whose parents were deaf and dumb. Leo would sit in the Oak Room of the Plaza lip reading what people were saying across the room.
Michael always asked what my husband Allan was up to, what the girls were doing, and how my son David’s acting career was going. He was a positive support for my whole family. Believe me, when Michael and Ariane show up for a son’s play, they must be friends!
I met Michael and Ariane–isn’t Michael and Ariane one word?–in 1968. It was at a mutual friend named Bill Bernhard’s Christmas eve party and Michael and Ariane were newly married. Later, ever the matchmakers, the two introduced Bill to his wonderful wife Catherine. And Bill, with great enthusiasm, introduced the Batts to me as two people who wanted to give Gourmet Magazine a run for their money. They wanted to create a new magazine about food and wine that would attract men like Michael who liked to cook. As all brainstorms Batterberry style the idea took hold and you all know the results. Through the years we became friends and I started writing for the new magazine.
In 1974 when On the Town in New York came out, the Batterberrys agreed to participate in the first Ninth Avenue Food Festival that I was curating. The two stood outside of Alps Pharmacy on 9th Avenue, talking and peddling their cookbook. At the time I thought how regal they both looked, yet so very down to earth they interacted with people.
In 2005 Michael and Ariane participated in Food Culture USA for the Smithsonian Folklife Festival. After the event, a woman told me how great it was to see such high and mighty people sitting on the lawn of the national mall and carrying on a conversation with regular people.
Michael was the food world’s catalyst, encouraging so many people. Dan Barber, Michael Nischan, his staff, his friends. The same joy with which he welcomed a new idea, he put into his own cooking, something he did so rarely in the later years.
Two years ago on New Year’s day, Michael invited Allan and me to dinner in their apartment with the Utleys. The dark, cloth adorned walls, always reminded me of a Proustian salon, like the one I imagined that Ariane’s mother held in New York. We had pate that a friend sent every year to the Batterberrys, followed by bigosh, an absolutely delicious Polish stew that Michael, wearing a white apron wrapped around his waist, cooked up for the six of us. Not a bad way to start the new year. Such joie de vivre in cooking, such joy for every day of life. For years Michael knew that he had a health problem, but like his age, he preferred to ignore it. When the Batterberrys received the James Beard Award’s Lifetime Achievement Award this spring, there was a standing ovation. And what did Michael, visibly moved, do, he elegantly kissed Ariane’s hand. Always a gentleman. Always doing the right thing. We will all miss him.
Jan Longone — Ann Arbor, MI USA — October 20, 2010 2:09pm ET
About 10 years ago, my husband and I were meeting someone for lunch at Eleven Madison Park when we bumped into Michael there. We knew each other, but not well. With his typical intellectual curiosity and enthusiasm, he asked what was new in our lives. I told him of my recent appointment as Curator of American Culinary History at the University of Michigan’s Clements Library in Ann Arbor. His immediate response was to ask if we were free after lunch and would we come to the offices of Food Arts and talk to his staff about this pioneering appointment. Which we did. Michael assembled some of the staff, who not only listened to what we had to say, but asked questions and made suggestions for how we could work together to strengthen the growing interest in culinary history, especially in academia. In 2005 at the time of the First Biennial Symposium on American Culinary History, Michael and Ariane agreed to serve on the Honorary Committee of the UM Longone Center for American Culinary Research. For many years, articles about the Center appeared in Food Arts, often written by Meryle Evans, culminating in a Silver Spoon Award. Michael’s support and interest were crucial for the Center, helping us to spread the word. Michael was one-of-a- kind; now the world is a less interesting place but Michael’s legacy will remain bright for a very long time.
Jan Longone, Curator of American Culinary History, Clements Library, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor
Gary Tucker — New York City — October 20, 2010 2:45pm ET
From the first moment I met Michael Batterberry, I felt I was in the presence of greatness. I had just graduated from The French Culinary Institute and was enthralled by his new magazine, Food Arts, “created for chefs!” as my fellow students were quick to point out. He amazed me with his elephantine memory and ability to put everything into historical perspective. We take for granted that magnanimous men such as Michael will just go on forever, and it makes his passing all the more deeply felt.
Elizabeth Powell Gorai — NYC & Wolfeboro, NH — November 5, 2010 10:02am ET
I knew the name Batterberry for years as the pubishers of Food Arts which my father, Charlie Powell had the good fortune to write for on occasion. We are a restaurateur family and are subscribed of course, never missing the Birth Announcements and Deep Dish sections. What a treat it was to see my father’s pieces in print therein!
My Dad always spoke of Michael and Ariane as the quintessential NY foodies, whose lives were rich with great experiences in food and culture, and who served as mentors and friends to many in the food industry across the country.
In fact, as I read these memoirs here, it’s clear the Batterberrys are responsible for the burgeoning culinary scene we enjoy today in NY and around the world. Their love of food, their professionalism and style, and their commitment to people, ignited a passion for good taste in America and gave birth to the likes of Chefs both celebrity and iron.
When my Dad passed away in 2001, I was touched to see Michael and Ariane Batterberry in attendance at his memorial service in Manhattan. It made me understand how much a part of his life the Batterberrys were, and gave credit to his legacy.
I recognize and thank Mr. Batterberry for the care and attention he gave my father. The passing on of great people reminds me to appreciate and savor each day we are given. I send my deepest sympathies to Mrs. Batterberry on the loss of her dear husband. She is already carrying on, with elegance and panache, the great traditions this power-couple have established and served these last many years. Long live Food Arts!
ProChef360 — Queensland, Australia — November 27, 2010 1:01pm ET
Michael is a great man and definitely a great loss to the industry. His life will be remembered...
Matthew JG
http://prochef360blog.com
betty fussell — NYC — December 11, 2010 4:19pm ET
I had no idea who I was meeting when I was long ago introduced to the Batterberrys at The Rainbow Room. I remember that Patti LuPone sang and the Batterberrys talked about food, music, art, people, publishing. I was dazzled. I was a hick from the suburbs. They were so sophisticated, so New York.
I always thought of Michael as the Big Man because he was so tall---and handsome. He knew exactly what you wanted to say before you'd even opened your mouth or typed a word. He knew all about the grand and the gritty, from farm mud to fine china--- every aspect of the food world past and future.
He welcomed me into that world as no one else had or could. He listened. He made me feel that he valued every word I had to say. Because of his embrace, I got to go places and meet people and talk about them on the printed page in a way that was unique to Food Arts. And invaluable to a writer.
My gratitude to Michael is with me every day as I taste words, food, art, kitchens and kitchen talk at the heart of this great food city that the Batterberrys opened for all the world to savor. Thank you Big Man.
Eric Levin — Montclair, New Jersey — January 2, 2011 6:42pm ET
My transition from foodie to food writer would never have happened without Michael. His openness to me--a halting stranger introducing himself to him after he spoke (fascinatingly) in a panel discussion--struck me as miraculous, but later I understood as pure Michael.
I feel him so present in all the comments above. The sound of his voice, his warmth and elegance and humor, the thrill of being told by Beverly, "Michael would like to talk with you," the slow pleasurable discovery of all the rooms and corridors and limitless galleries of his erudition and human experience, his partnership with the scintillating Ariane, on and on.
I personally owe him so much. The first FA story he assigned me was one he had been harboring for awhile till he found the right writer. That I was the man for the job he had no doubt, and his faith in me inspired me to do my best and then some, lest I let him down. The story wound up in "Best Food Writing: 2003," an honor owed largely to Michael's perception that there was a great tale to be told (about one restaurateur's response to 9/11) and to the imprimatur of Food Arts.
I once asked Michael if he would be the guest speaker at a meeting of my dinner group, Open Circle--a small group of men of different professions who gather six times a year over dinner to host a distinguished guest. Michael trekked out to Hoboken for the event--for the sake of the seven or eight of us--and left us all feeling embraced, elevated and enthralled.
Thank you, Michael, taken so prematurely, but having given so many so much in so little time.
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Chef Joe Berg — New Haven, Ct — February 18, 2011 10:35am ET
I approached Mr. Batterburym at the New York Food Show at the Javitz Center, I told him that I wanted to write for Food Arts, without hesitation he handed me his card and told me to send him something. I never did and regeret it to this day. We walked over to a booth and he introduced me to a young chef serving cassoulet. The young chef was Anthony Bourdain. I'll never forget that.
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Michael was a great man. You will be missed...